We have left the Camino behind us, the final three days marked by extreme variations in weather and encounters with a group of German walkers. We spent the night of the first of October in a small gite where we had a room to ourselves. Attending the pilgrim meeting that evening, we discovered that most of the other people at the meeting were part of a groupf of 10 German men from near a small village who had walked together, for the past 11 years, 220 k per year. And over wine following the meeting we discovered that they were staying at the same place as us. So we dined together, became friends, and breakfasted together.
Setting off the next morning in the rain, which became persistent and miserable, we slogged along, stopping at the only available shelter, that of a farmer who sold pate. There was a large van parked nearby, driven by one of the Germans who drove (health issues) and carried supplies for the group.
As we sat chatting and ate our usual bread, cheese and ham, he asked me what was missing from our meal, and I laughingly replied that a cup of hot coffee would be wonderful. He went ro the van, got out a little hotplate, kettle and instant coffee! Talk about Camino miracles! His group appeared up the hill, to take the picnic spot, and we went off.
We arrived at our gite to find the door open and a note saying that the owners would be back sometime later, but dinner was impossible because the woman in town who cooked was ill. So we tried to dry out, waited around and eventually the couple arrived and we bought some instant dinners to heat in the microwave. Fortunately we had another couple to share the evening with, and a half bottle of wine, so all was not lost (from Richard´s perspective). But he will be reminded of this meal whenever he starts raving about French cooking.
Breakfast was very pleasant en famille with our hosts, and we set off in good spirits with dry clothes (they had a dryer) and the promise of a sunny day after the heavy mist cleared. This was a long day, about 26 k with hills, but fantastic views of the Pyrenees, small farms, sheep ,cattle. It really was idyllic. We took the low route past and by good fourtune arrived at Uhte Mixe at lunch time so we treated ourselves to omlette and the local dish of pipperade...not sure of the spellling, but it was delicious, made with ripe tomatoes, and long red peppers. On then past Ostabat to a gite on a sheep farm. More great food, featuring sheep cheese, and icecream. The thing about walking all day is that you really like the food you eat...as I realize that I am spending a lot of time recalling meals.
The last day into St Jean was cloudy with some showers, and a bit anticlimactic. The high point for me was that we stopped in the rain in St Jean le Vieux to find shelter to eat and went to a bar that advertised that you could eat your pique nique. And who did we find inside, but our 10 German friends! There was such a reunion, as we shared our adventures and mishaps.
As luck would have it we arrived at the entrance to the town at the same time as them, and took a final photograph, as they head off over the mountains and we head towards home. Our final Camino encounter was with our Australain friends who happened to be eating dinner at the same restaurant that night. We atayed in the same small hotel we were at in 2013 when we walked from St Jean to Finisterre. We are done.
And now, having taken trains to Bordeaux and plane to Geneva, we are with Richard's daughter who will spoil us...and we do not have to get up and walk anywhere. Our three weeks of the Camino from Cahors to St Jean allowed plenty of solitude for reflection and some very meaningful encounters with others walking the same path....lots to think about.
Tuesday 6 October 2015
Thursday 1 October 2015
October 1 in Navarrenx - 56 km to go
The Pyrenees are in our sights now. We are feeling particularly good today, because we walked only 13 km arriving in Navarrenx at noon and treating ourselves to a nice lunch. The sun is shining, the town is quaint, fortified and very welcoming. And we have a nice little room in a Relais, complete with kitchen, which we do not need, and a garden which is secluded and great for drying clothes.
The tourist office has not one but two computers. We have climbed a few hills over the past three days, some of them very steep, but we stop every hour for water and a rest. Compared to the other walkers, we are walking in a very relaxed manner.
Last night, near Sauvelade, we arrived at our gite - the one we reserved sometime last winter (isolated at the top of what seemed like a small mountain) at 4 oclock, to find nobody home, nobody answering the phone number on the door, and contemplating eating peanuts for dinner and walking back to a gite a couple of kms back. Fortunately Richard walked to the next property and found someone who found the owner. There seemed to be considerable confusion, but eventually we were installed in our room. In the end we had the entire place to ourselves and a nice dinner. Our only companions were a rescued lama and three small chevreuil (sp? deer).
Now, a little light sightseeing, and a pilgrim welcome at 6pm. We have three more days to go, not too difficult, very hard and fairly easy. Thinking about getting one pack transported on the difficult day.
Lots of hills ahead. Both exciting and a little sad to be nearing the end. Hoping for continued good weather. We have been extremely lucky so far.
The tourist office has not one but two computers. We have climbed a few hills over the past three days, some of them very steep, but we stop every hour for water and a rest. Compared to the other walkers, we are walking in a very relaxed manner.
Last night, near Sauvelade, we arrived at our gite - the one we reserved sometime last winter (isolated at the top of what seemed like a small mountain) at 4 oclock, to find nobody home, nobody answering the phone number on the door, and contemplating eating peanuts for dinner and walking back to a gite a couple of kms back. Fortunately Richard walked to the next property and found someone who found the owner. There seemed to be considerable confusion, but eventually we were installed in our room. In the end we had the entire place to ourselves and a nice dinner. Our only companions were a rescued lama and three small chevreuil (sp? deer).
Now, a little light sightseeing, and a pilgrim welcome at 6pm. We have three more days to go, not too difficult, very hard and fairly easy. Thinking about getting one pack transported on the difficult day.
Lots of hills ahead. Both exciting and a little sad to be nearing the end. Hoping for continued good weather. We have been extremely lucky so far.
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