September 22 finally found an internet cafe in Condom

I am really enjoying  the Gers, the district that we are walking through.  Here is what we have been up to for the past few days.

September 18 arrived in Castet Arrouy at Chambres d hotes chez Nat.  This was a long day of 23 k, with enough hills, but plenty of time walking through fields and not too much goudron (pavement).  We shared our accommodation with Nat and her dog Cookie and a Swiss French couple who were commando walkers, leaving us in their dust.  They had previously cycled around the world -- for real.

September 19 arrived just beyond Marsolan, 19 k of walking.  The day was mixed sun and showers with some steep hills.  We were tired late in the day coming up the hill to Marsolan, when we head organ music coming from the church, so we took off our packs and went in, to be treated to half an hour`s concert.  It was wonderful and every once and a while the organist broke into song.  Turns our there was a concert the next evening and he was practising.  How lucky for us!  We were staying in a restored farmhouse beyond the town, 800 metres straight up.  But what a view.  The property was inherited by the husband and the couple had restored the buildings over time - very nice and a warm welcome.  Lots of discussions of local history, and I am finding that if people speak slowly I can understand quite a bit.  At dinner we were introduced to floc, an aperitif consisting of armagnac and grape juice.  We now order it at every opportunity.  We are eating and drinking very well, and if we were not walking; clothes would fit anymore. When we set off the next day we could see the Pyrenees in the distance.  I had no idea that would be possible.  That is our goal...the foothills of the Pyrenees;

September 20 arrived just short of Castelnau sur Auvignon, a short day of only14 k. The day was warm and sunny.  Again some hills, but the countryside is described as "feminin" - gentle rolling hills. We were off the main GR65 by 1 k, and the only guests at Domaine Rose des Vents.  No dinner, but we had cheese and fruit and Patricia gave us some bread and wine.  We had a small cottage to ourselves with a swimming pool!  So, after being greeted with coffee and pastries, we dozed in the sun and swam for three hours.  Heaven!  I was feeling that we were not suffering enough. We watched the lizards and doves until it got too cold, then retreated inside.

September 21  arrived in Condom - 14 k.  Not a difficult day, sunny and the Pyrenees were again visible.  Passed fields with grape harvests in progress and had to move aside on the small roads when the giant harvesting machines went past. Were reminded again  in Castelnau that this area was a center of Resistance during WW2. Did not have a good initial impression of Condom, but that has changed.  We treated ourselves to a large gizard salad lunch, of course with floc and wine, after which we could scarcely pick up our backpacks. Went to the Cathedral and spoke with the pilgrim welcomer, a very warm and gentle man. Apparently very few walkers stop, and he seemed happy to talk.  We returned later for Mass after which about 20 pilgrims were blessed.  Then major washing of clothes, dinner and bed.  Oh yes, Richard`s bank card arrived, great news for us!

September 22  Day of rest in Condom.  Leisurely breakfast, then located a cybercafe, not yet open. Decided to take a boat ride along the canal/river, opting for taking our own pique nique, so we shoppd for bread and fruit.  Joined a bunch of old folks and cruised for 2 hours, including 2 locks.
Tomorrow we will be back to counting steps to the top of the next hill.  And plenty of interesting encounters with fellow pilgrims. To Montreal de Gers via Larressingle.

A bientot!