We have left the Camino behind us, the final three days marked by extreme variations in weather and encounters with a group of German walkers. We spent the night of the first of October in a small gite where we had a room to ourselves. Attending the pilgrim meeting that evening, we discovered that most of the other people at the meeting were part of a groupf of 10 German men from near a small village who had walked together, for the past 11 years, 220 k per year. And over wine following the meeting we discovered that they were staying at the same place as us. So we dined together, became friends, and breakfasted together.
Setting off the next morning in the rain, which became persistent and miserable, we slogged along, stopping at the only available shelter, that of a farmer who sold pate. There was a large van parked nearby, driven by one of the Germans who drove (health issues) and carried supplies for the group.
As we sat chatting and ate our usual bread, cheese and ham, he asked me what was missing from our meal, and I laughingly replied that a cup of hot coffee would be wonderful. He went ro the van, got out a little hotplate, kettle and instant coffee! Talk about Camino miracles! His group appeared up the hill, to take the picnic spot, and we went off.
We arrived at our gite to find the door open and a note saying that the owners would be back sometime later, but dinner was impossible because the woman in town who cooked was ill. So we tried to dry out, waited around and eventually the couple arrived and we bought some instant dinners to heat in the microwave. Fortunately we had another couple to share the evening with, and a half bottle of wine, so all was not lost (from Richard´s perspective). But he will be reminded of this meal whenever he starts raving about French cooking.
Breakfast was very pleasant en famille with our hosts, and we set off in good spirits with dry clothes (they had a dryer) and the promise of a sunny day after the heavy mist cleared. This was a long day, about 26 k with hills, but fantastic views of the Pyrenees, small farms, sheep ,cattle. It really was idyllic. We took the low route past and by good fourtune arrived at Uhte Mixe at lunch time so we treated ourselves to omlette and the local dish of pipperade...not sure of the spellling, but it was delicious, made with ripe tomatoes, and long red peppers. On then past Ostabat to a gite on a sheep farm. More great food, featuring sheep cheese, and icecream. The thing about walking all day is that you really like the food you eat...as I realize that I am spending a lot of time recalling meals.
The last day into St Jean was cloudy with some showers, and a bit anticlimactic. The high point for me was that we stopped in the rain in St Jean le Vieux to find shelter to eat and went to a bar that advertised that you could eat your pique nique. And who did we find inside, but our 10 German friends! There was such a reunion, as we shared our adventures and mishaps.
As luck would have it we arrived at the entrance to the town at the same time as them, and took a final photograph, as they head off over the mountains and we head towards home. Our final Camino encounter was with our Australain friends who happened to be eating dinner at the same restaurant that night. We atayed in the same small hotel we were at in 2013 when we walked from St Jean to Finisterre. We are done.
And now, having taken trains to Bordeaux and plane to Geneva, we are with Richard's daughter who will spoil us...and we do not have to get up and walk anywhere. Our three weeks of the Camino from Cahors to St Jean allowed plenty of solitude for reflection and some very meaningful encounters with others walking the same path....lots to think about.
Tuesday 6 October 2015
Thursday 1 October 2015
October 1 in Navarrenx - 56 km to go
The Pyrenees are in our sights now. We are feeling particularly good today, because we walked only 13 km arriving in Navarrenx at noon and treating ourselves to a nice lunch. The sun is shining, the town is quaint, fortified and very welcoming. And we have a nice little room in a Relais, complete with kitchen, which we do not need, and a garden which is secluded and great for drying clothes.
The tourist office has not one but two computers. We have climbed a few hills over the past three days, some of them very steep, but we stop every hour for water and a rest. Compared to the other walkers, we are walking in a very relaxed manner.
Last night, near Sauvelade, we arrived at our gite - the one we reserved sometime last winter (isolated at the top of what seemed like a small mountain) at 4 oclock, to find nobody home, nobody answering the phone number on the door, and contemplating eating peanuts for dinner and walking back to a gite a couple of kms back. Fortunately Richard walked to the next property and found someone who found the owner. There seemed to be considerable confusion, but eventually we were installed in our room. In the end we had the entire place to ourselves and a nice dinner. Our only companions were a rescued lama and three small chevreuil (sp? deer).
Now, a little light sightseeing, and a pilgrim welcome at 6pm. We have three more days to go, not too difficult, very hard and fairly easy. Thinking about getting one pack transported on the difficult day.
Lots of hills ahead. Both exciting and a little sad to be nearing the end. Hoping for continued good weather. We have been extremely lucky so far.
The tourist office has not one but two computers. We have climbed a few hills over the past three days, some of them very steep, but we stop every hour for water and a rest. Compared to the other walkers, we are walking in a very relaxed manner.
Last night, near Sauvelade, we arrived at our gite - the one we reserved sometime last winter (isolated at the top of what seemed like a small mountain) at 4 oclock, to find nobody home, nobody answering the phone number on the door, and contemplating eating peanuts for dinner and walking back to a gite a couple of kms back. Fortunately Richard walked to the next property and found someone who found the owner. There seemed to be considerable confusion, but eventually we were installed in our room. In the end we had the entire place to ourselves and a nice dinner. Our only companions were a rescued lama and three small chevreuil (sp? deer).
Now, a little light sightseeing, and a pilgrim welcome at 6pm. We have three more days to go, not too difficult, very hard and fairly easy. Thinking about getting one pack transported on the difficult day.
Lots of hills ahead. Both exciting and a little sad to be nearing the end. Hoping for continued good weather. We have been extremely lucky so far.
Monday 28 September 2015
Had to check the date _ Sept 28 Arrzacq
We are in the midst of a heat wave...very hot after 11 oclock, so we will try and start early tomorrow for our 28.5 k day. We have left the very boring flat cornfieldsand entered the more interesting hills of the Pyrenees Atlantiques. More cows, more mixed farms but still the duck farms. The laundry is drying and we have had a rest and are off to see the sights here, including the Musee de Jambon - ham museum. We are in France where food rules.
Wish us luck tomorrow. It could be brutal with the heat.
Wish us luck tomorrow. It could be brutal with the heat.
Saturday 26 September 2015
September 26 arrived in Barcelone du Gers - our last day in the Gers
The walk is going well. The unsettled weather we experienced the first few days seems to have resolved and we have clear sunny days, quite cool in the morning and hot in the afternoon. The Pyrenees are becoming more distinct on the horizon...it is very exciting for me to think that in a little more than a week we will be back where we started our original Camino 2 years ago. We have met some very interesting walkers, both men and women, and from a variety of countries. This is where we have been:
September 23 Just past Montreal du Gers at a La Ferme Couloumé, a working vinyard producing Armagnac, that has been in the family for 5 generations and is currently run by the 91 year old father and his daughter, as far as we could tell. They have 2 dogs, one named Floc, after the aperetif, and he has a habit of following pilgrims to the extent that they hav had to retrieve him from as far away as 150 km! We ate à table with the family...my ability to follow conversations improving of necessity.
September 24 - Spent the night at Domaine du Passage, a couple of kms before Manciet. The is a horse farm that raises a particular breed of Portugese show horses, and ducks. They have 35 of the former and 5,000 of the latter. We received a very warm welcome and again at with the couple and their 2 children. Our accommodations are extremely varied which we enjoy a lot, and many of the places are off the main path, which is sometimes frustrating when we are trying to find them at the end of a day of walking, but so far has really paid off.
September 25 Lanne Soubiran at Gite d'etape Presbytre. Thought we would never get there and drank a gallon of water upon arriving. Only 2 other pilgrims, both French, a man and woman who seemed to have been interacting over a few days prior....a little soap opera for our diversion. The hospitaliero there has self published a book on the Camino...one of the many out there. The walk and the social drama exhausted me and we went to bed early after watching the cat chase a mouse around the living room.
September 26 Barcelone du Gers. A shorter day, only 17 km, flat boring countryside with lots of corn and fewer grapes. We arrived too early to check in and passed the time chatting with the pharmacist next door who has a brother Chicoutimi, Quebec. He stayed in France because he loves the wine. The hotel is a restored bastide (citadel ?) with a small pool and jacuzzi, totally unexpected, but welcome. And a computer!
So we are relaxed, clothes washed and I am getting very hungry smelling dinner being prepared - apparently they only cook for pilgrims.
Our bodies are holding up well, despite carrying heavier packs than anticipated (the Icelandair backpack debacle). Richard has a sore shoulder and my left heel hurts occasionally, but seems to be getting better the farther I go. This half of the Le Puy is less strenuous so that we can go slower and stop and enjoy...whatever, churches, animals. More time for reflection.
On to Miramont Sensacq tomorrow. Au Revoir for now.
September 23 Just past Montreal du Gers at a La Ferme Couloumé, a working vinyard producing Armagnac, that has been in the family for 5 generations and is currently run by the 91 year old father and his daughter, as far as we could tell. They have 2 dogs, one named Floc, after the aperetif, and he has a habit of following pilgrims to the extent that they hav had to retrieve him from as far away as 150 km! We ate à table with the family...my ability to follow conversations improving of necessity.
September 24 - Spent the night at Domaine du Passage, a couple of kms before Manciet. The is a horse farm that raises a particular breed of Portugese show horses, and ducks. They have 35 of the former and 5,000 of the latter. We received a very warm welcome and again at with the couple and their 2 children. Our accommodations are extremely varied which we enjoy a lot, and many of the places are off the main path, which is sometimes frustrating when we are trying to find them at the end of a day of walking, but so far has really paid off.
September 25 Lanne Soubiran at Gite d'etape Presbytre. Thought we would never get there and drank a gallon of water upon arriving. Only 2 other pilgrims, both French, a man and woman who seemed to have been interacting over a few days prior....a little soap opera for our diversion. The hospitaliero there has self published a book on the Camino...one of the many out there. The walk and the social drama exhausted me and we went to bed early after watching the cat chase a mouse around the living room.
September 26 Barcelone du Gers. A shorter day, only 17 km, flat boring countryside with lots of corn and fewer grapes. We arrived too early to check in and passed the time chatting with the pharmacist next door who has a brother Chicoutimi, Quebec. He stayed in France because he loves the wine. The hotel is a restored bastide (citadel ?) with a small pool and jacuzzi, totally unexpected, but welcome. And a computer!
So we are relaxed, clothes washed and I am getting very hungry smelling dinner being prepared - apparently they only cook for pilgrims.
Our bodies are holding up well, despite carrying heavier packs than anticipated (the Icelandair backpack debacle). Richard has a sore shoulder and my left heel hurts occasionally, but seems to be getting better the farther I go. This half of the Le Puy is less strenuous so that we can go slower and stop and enjoy...whatever, churches, animals. More time for reflection.
On to Miramont Sensacq tomorrow. Au Revoir for now.
Tuesday 22 September 2015
September 22 finally found an internet cafe in Condom
I am really enjoying the Gers, the district that we are walking through. Here is what we have been up to for the past few days.
September 18 arrived in Castet Arrouy at Chambres d hotes chez Nat. This was a long day of 23 k, with enough hills, but plenty of time walking through fields and not too much goudron (pavement). We shared our accommodation with Nat and her dog Cookie and a Swiss French couple who were commando walkers, leaving us in their dust. They had previously cycled around the world -- for real.
September 19 arrived just beyond Marsolan, 19 k of walking. The day was mixed sun and showers with some steep hills. We were tired late in the day coming up the hill to Marsolan, when we head organ music coming from the church, so we took off our packs and went in, to be treated to half an hour`s concert. It was wonderful and every once and a while the organist broke into song. Turns our there was a concert the next evening and he was practising. How lucky for us! We were staying in a restored farmhouse beyond the town, 800 metres straight up. But what a view. The property was inherited by the husband and the couple had restored the buildings over time - very nice and a warm welcome. Lots of discussions of local history, and I am finding that if people speak slowly I can understand quite a bit. At dinner we were introduced to floc, an aperitif consisting of armagnac and grape juice. We now order it at every opportunity. We are eating and drinking very well, and if we were not walking; clothes would fit anymore. When we set off the next day we could see the Pyrenees in the distance. I had no idea that would be possible. That is our goal...the foothills of the Pyrenees;
September 20 arrived just short of Castelnau sur Auvignon, a short day of only14 k. The day was warm and sunny. Again some hills, but the countryside is described as "feminin" - gentle rolling hills. We were off the main GR65 by 1 k, and the only guests at Domaine Rose des Vents. No dinner, but we had cheese and fruit and Patricia gave us some bread and wine. We had a small cottage to ourselves with a swimming pool! So, after being greeted with coffee and pastries, we dozed in the sun and swam for three hours. Heaven! I was feeling that we were not suffering enough. We watched the lizards and doves until it got too cold, then retreated inside.
September 21 arrived in Condom - 14 k. Not a difficult day, sunny and the Pyrenees were again visible. Passed fields with grape harvests in progress and had to move aside on the small roads when the giant harvesting machines went past. Were reminded again in Castelnau that this area was a center of Resistance during WW2. Did not have a good initial impression of Condom, but that has changed. We treated ourselves to a large gizard salad lunch, of course with floc and wine, after which we could scarcely pick up our backpacks. Went to the Cathedral and spoke with the pilgrim welcomer, a very warm and gentle man. Apparently very few walkers stop, and he seemed happy to talk. We returned later for Mass after which about 20 pilgrims were blessed. Then major washing of clothes, dinner and bed. Oh yes, Richard`s bank card arrived, great news for us!
September 22 Day of rest in Condom. Leisurely breakfast, then located a cybercafe, not yet open. Decided to take a boat ride along the canal/river, opting for taking our own pique nique, so we shoppd for bread and fruit. Joined a bunch of old folks and cruised for 2 hours, including 2 locks.
Tomorrow we will be back to counting steps to the top of the next hill. And plenty of interesting encounters with fellow pilgrims. To Montreal de Gers via Larressingle.
A bientot!
September 18 arrived in Castet Arrouy at Chambres d hotes chez Nat. This was a long day of 23 k, with enough hills, but plenty of time walking through fields and not too much goudron (pavement). We shared our accommodation with Nat and her dog Cookie and a Swiss French couple who were commando walkers, leaving us in their dust. They had previously cycled around the world -- for real.
September 19 arrived just beyond Marsolan, 19 k of walking. The day was mixed sun and showers with some steep hills. We were tired late in the day coming up the hill to Marsolan, when we head organ music coming from the church, so we took off our packs and went in, to be treated to half an hour`s concert. It was wonderful and every once and a while the organist broke into song. Turns our there was a concert the next evening and he was practising. How lucky for us! We were staying in a restored farmhouse beyond the town, 800 metres straight up. But what a view. The property was inherited by the husband and the couple had restored the buildings over time - very nice and a warm welcome. Lots of discussions of local history, and I am finding that if people speak slowly I can understand quite a bit. At dinner we were introduced to floc, an aperitif consisting of armagnac and grape juice. We now order it at every opportunity. We are eating and drinking very well, and if we were not walking; clothes would fit anymore. When we set off the next day we could see the Pyrenees in the distance. I had no idea that would be possible. That is our goal...the foothills of the Pyrenees;
September 20 arrived just short of Castelnau sur Auvignon, a short day of only14 k. The day was warm and sunny. Again some hills, but the countryside is described as "feminin" - gentle rolling hills. We were off the main GR65 by 1 k, and the only guests at Domaine Rose des Vents. No dinner, but we had cheese and fruit and Patricia gave us some bread and wine. We had a small cottage to ourselves with a swimming pool! So, after being greeted with coffee and pastries, we dozed in the sun and swam for three hours. Heaven! I was feeling that we were not suffering enough. We watched the lizards and doves until it got too cold, then retreated inside.
September 21 arrived in Condom - 14 k. Not a difficult day, sunny and the Pyrenees were again visible. Passed fields with grape harvests in progress and had to move aside on the small roads when the giant harvesting machines went past. Were reminded again in Castelnau that this area was a center of Resistance during WW2. Did not have a good initial impression of Condom, but that has changed. We treated ourselves to a large gizard salad lunch, of course with floc and wine, after which we could scarcely pick up our backpacks. Went to the Cathedral and spoke with the pilgrim welcomer, a very warm and gentle man. Apparently very few walkers stop, and he seemed happy to talk. We returned later for Mass after which about 20 pilgrims were blessed. Then major washing of clothes, dinner and bed. Oh yes, Richard`s bank card arrived, great news for us!
September 22 Day of rest in Condom. Leisurely breakfast, then located a cybercafe, not yet open. Decided to take a boat ride along the canal/river, opting for taking our own pique nique, so we shoppd for bread and fruit. Joined a bunch of old folks and cruised for 2 hours, including 2 locks.
Tomorrow we will be back to counting steps to the top of the next hill. And plenty of interesting encounters with fellow pilgrims. To Montreal de Gers via Larressingle.
A bientot!
Saturday 12 September 2015
September 12 In Cahors.....without backpack
We arrived yesterday after 24 plus hours of travelvia 2 planes and 3 trains. The major hitch being that my backpack did not come down the carousel in Paris. So I am now the owner of a small daypack and several articlesof clothes which I actually really, but was not planning to carry. They include a 2 euro hat that says MDR which apparently means dying of laughter. I did not pick the one that said WTF which I think means somethingin English. Icelandair promisesthat I will be reunited with my backpackon Monday evening. Most of today was taken up by hiking to the camping store....not far by car, but on foot a different story. We also spent a pleasant half an hour chatting with the pilgrim greeter in the cathedral where we pickedup our pilgrim passports.
And we went back to our old hotel for coffee. It is just as noisy as we remember, but it still has plenty of character. This time we opted for quiet. Now it is off to wash clothes and have dinner. I will definitely be attending mass tomorrow, then we will be off across the bridge.
The weather is pleasant and drizzly, but good for walking.
Apologies for the unresponsive spacebar on the computer
Bon Chemin We will see what tomorrow brings!
And we went back to our old hotel for coffee. It is just as noisy as we remember, but it still has plenty of character. This time we opted for quiet. Now it is off to wash clothes and have dinner. I will definitely be attending mass tomorrow, then we will be off across the bridge.
The weather is pleasant and drizzly, but good for walking.
Apologies for the unresponsive spacebar on the computer
Bon Chemin We will see what tomorrow brings!
Wednesday 9 September 2015
This is the first hill we will be climbing as we head out of Cahors
 |
| Photo of our friend Hubert taken last year after we said farewell to him from the fortified bridge. In a couple of days this will be us contemplating climbing this hill, as we set out to complete le Chemin du Puy. |
September 9 - We leave tomorrow
Twenty-four hours from now we will be over the Atlantic on our way to Reykjavik and then on to Paris and eventually, after three train rides, our starting point, Cahors. Our packs are ready, 14 pounds for Richard, with the carry-on pack and 12 pounds for me, with the checked pack. They feel mercifully light, since we have been training with 20 pound packs, to compensate for the lack of serious hills near the cottage.
At this point, all in in the hands of the gods. Since we have a day to rest, and sort out our finances, in Cahors, and do not start walking until Sunday, I plan to attend church Sunday morning and light a candle, asking the gods to smile on us. Our first day of walking is very short, about 8 km, so we have no need to get an early start. I think our time would be better spent in church.
At this point, all in in the hands of the gods. Since we have a day to rest, and sort out our finances, in Cahors, and do not start walking until Sunday, I plan to attend church Sunday morning and light a candle, asking the gods to smile on us. Our first day of walking is very short, about 8 km, so we have no need to get an early start. I think our time would be better spent in church.
Thursday 27 August 2015
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