Day 42 - Finisterre - DONE *****

The rains ended overnight, thankfully, and the final day of walking was done under mixed skies, with only the occasional shower.  And it was a pleasant, mostly over the high moors of Galicia with only a couple of tiny hamlets, and very few pilgrims.  At about 1pm I went over a slight hill and had my first glimpse of the Atlantic.  It was a wonderful feeling to know that I had walked from the south of France, over the Pyrenees, across northern Spain, and finally was close the ocean - the end of land and the end of my journey.  Down a steep incline and into the town of Cee (in the rain).  I stopped at the first cafe/bar only to find most of the folks with whom I had walked the day before.  Everyone was very happy to be nearing the end, and we lingered over several coffees, waiting in vain for the rain to cease.  I finally headed out, and promptly got lost - it was hellishly difficult to find the way out of Cee.  I was rescued by a fellow pilgrim who had lunch with me (she had spotted my bright yellow jacket) and showed me a waymarker she had just spotted.  It seemed to take forever to get to Finisterre, up and down many times and back and forth across the highway.  It was fun to walk along the shore of the ocean, but I was ready to be done, and it was another long day of 30+ km. At around 4:30 I found the Albergue do Mar, right on the Camino and at the edge of the beach, overlooking the ocean. Richard was waiting, and we watched the rain end and the most complete rainbow form over the ocean.  At this point I felt finally finished with my journey of 900 km.  We enjoyed a dinner of freshly caught fish and I heard about Richard's adventures going to Muxia on the other side of the peninsula.
The next morning we walked along the beach under sunny skies, I put one foot in the Atlantic and collected some shells.  Then it was off to the bus station.  There was time for a final cafe con leche and tarte Santiago.  The bus trip back to Santiago took 3 hours, in comparison to the 3 days it had taken me to walk from the same city. We stayed near the bus station, had a farewell ensalada mixte with tuna and a racione of cheese, then took the bus to the airport and by 10 pm were in Geneva, our Camino over. 
It will take several days and weeks of reflection to think about what this journey has meant to us.
We have hundreds of photos and hundreds of adventures and memories.  It is still difficult to comprehend that we do not have to get up every day and walk, no matter the conditions.
It was an incredible journey.  We were happy that we were both able to complete it in the way we wanted.  Now we need to rest, and for me the fatigue is not really physical, but mental and emotional.
We are looking forward to getting home, collecting Mandy, cleaning up after the renovation of our home and seeing all our family on the other side of the ocean.  We will have been gone for almost 2 months, and missed the entire fall season.  Time to prepare to step back into the "real" world.

Day 41 - Oliveroa

I am not sure exactly how much rain is normal for Galicia, but today was certainly very wet, and I have heard that the rain we experienced in Santiago caused considerable flooding in parts of the city.  Anyway, today was a 34 k slog that began in the semi dark of Negreira at 8:15 and ended at 3:30 in Oliveroa.  The only people I saw outdoors were the 7 pilgrims who more or less walked within eyesight of each other for a large part of the day.  And the animals were smart enough to stay under cover.  We walked through rivers, along roads running with inches of water and at one point were about to wade through calf deep water that covered a 30 foot section of the road when a truck appeared, drove through the water then stopped, loaded us all into the back of the truck, backed up through the water, unloaded us, then drove off, to shouts of gratitude.  There were 2 cafes open, and I stopped at both of them, ate a quick snack, had a hot drink, but did not linger long (cooled off too quickly, better to keep moving).  Boots soaked, pack rain cover filled with several pounds of water. One of the reasons I wanted to walk this more remote section of the Camino was so that I would not have to deal with hoards of pilgrims, but in the end, it was very comforting today to have company.  There was very little energy for talking, but the extra sets of eyes were useful in spotting route markers.  I am now warm and dry, and trying to get my equipment in some sort of state of dryness for tomorrow.  It is presently still dripping.  31 k tomorrow and then I will be truly DONE!

Day 40 - Negreira on the way to Finisterre

Here I am in a small bar down the road from where I am staying.  Richard is hopefully installed in a little hotel in Finisterre looking out at the ocean in the sun.  In order to rest his toe which is healing very slowly, he opted to take the bus to Finisterre (2.5 hours) and wait until I arrive on Friday.
We spent two incredibly wet nights in Santiago.  I have never seen rain so heavy and prolonged - soaked to the skin in 2 minutes, no matter how well you are protected.  But fortunately yesterday we had mixed weather and were able to see the sights between showers.  We collected our Compostelles at the Pilgrim´s office and were greeted there by a very pleasant woman who managed to make our welcome very warm and personal.  We learned that over 200 pilgrims over 80 years of age have registered there this year and she personally greeted the 91 year-old who finished recently.  We attended the pilgrims´ mass at noon and it was packed.  For me it was quite moving--the sun came out and the light poured in towards the end of the service.  The nun who did much of the singing had an amazingly pure voice.  And then there was the botofumaria, the huge gold incense container attached to large ropes which is swung back and forth by two teams of monks.  Most jaws, including mine, dropped. 
Somehow, between lunch and writing postcards, the afternoon vanished.  Then it was time to attend our second religious service of the day, this time in the church of the Benedictinas? - a small church behind the cathedral.  Our friend Denis ( M Amigo) was at the service, as was Amigo his dog.  He barked a couple of times!  Maybe because he smelled Richard who had givien him a package of bones earlier in the afternoon.
We exited the church and were promptly drenched.  The a late dinner and to bed to the sound of rain, rain, rain.  My idea to walk to Finisterre seemed crazy, and in fact a number of people we talked to had opted out.
Th rain stopped arounc 6am and by 8:30 just as it was getting lignt, I was on my way.  The weather was mixed, with some sun to dry out between showers.  I encountered only 3 pilgrims and one heron today, as well as numberous cats and dogs.  It was a short day, only 22 k but the next 2 days are long and difficult.

Day 38 - Santiago !!! at last and on to Finisterre or Muxia

Here we are and it absolutely teeming down with rain.  We are warm and dry and well fed, but have yet to venture out to get our Compostelle.  That can wait until tomorrow.  I have retrieved our package of clothes etc that we mailed here from Burgos.  I don´t think it has really sunk in that our 800km pilgrimage is over.  I am determined to walk on to either Finisterre (End of the World).  Richard is less certain, because his toe is still giving him some trouble.  We will sleep on it and decide tomorrow.  There are a number of folks here that we have encountered along the way, and Richard´s own personal "Camino miracle" - we encountered Amigo and M Amigo, the permanent pilgrim and his dog, and more or less followed them into Santiago.  We had not seen them since Sahagun.  Here is what we have been up to for the past couple of days.

Day 35  Gonzar  This was a very pleasant day´s walk through small hamlets.  There was lots of sun and we stopped a couple of times to get fruit from little donativo (donation) stands. We had nice chats, one with a French gentelman who had bought a home to restore on the Camino "because he loved it" and another with a Spanish man who returned to the home in which he was born, on the Camino and rents out the odd room to pilgrims.  We walked on through Portomarin where we picknicked and then on to Gonzar where we stayed in a private Alberge with wonderful fleece sheets and heat in the radiators. Dinner was in French at our table, because that was the most common language, and after a couple of bottles of wine, the conversation became very animated.

Day 36  Another 26k day to O Coto.  We usually begin now around 8:15, because there is some daylight. 
We began with no rain, but that didn´t last long.  The rain was torrential for a while, and walking down the inclines was treacherous because of all the water.  We and everyone else stopped at the first cafe, warmed up and headed out again.  And the rain was never really a problem for the rest of the day.  We are thinking that the Galicians must have 100 words for rain, just as the people in Canada´s north have 100 words for snow.  There are just so many varieties.  There was quite a bit of up and down today, so we were very happy to find our lodgings, a casa rural where we ate en famille.  The food was excellent and folks around the table were excited to be nearing the end of their journeys.  Richard and I are at this point tired of being on the move for almost 5 weeks.  It is quite wearing, and then of course there is the walking.  But after a while that becomes almost automatic.  Still....two more days.  And it is so damp.  I swear the clothes we washed were wetter after hanging up to "dry" than they were the night before.

Day 37   Santa Irene   This was a really long long day, 34k, maybe more, but the terrain was more difficult than it looked in the guidebook.  Based on where we were after lunch in Arzua, and the time, and the state of Richard´s toe, we made the decision that he would take a taxi to our hotel and I would walk.  I arrived at 7pm, just as it was getting a little too dark to be near the highway.  I encountered a couple of hunters with rifles, and was a little unnerved...but no harm.  During the day Richard encountered a retired priest/social worker from Cleveland!  Very nice man was Patrick, and we lunched with him.  Off to sleep for the last days´s walk.

Day 34 - Beldorado, just past Sarria

We are in Beldorado a few kms past Sarria.  After a nice quiet day off in Samos, where we rested, toured the monastery, and attended vespers twice, getting the pilgrim´s blessing the second time, we departed this morning for Sarria and points west.  We did encounter quite a few pilgims in Sarria, but not as many as we had feared.  After the peace and quiet of Samos, even a small town such as Sarria was hard to take, for me.  But the walking was quite peaceful, mostly along lanes lined with trees. And, although we were all prepared for rain, we had a lovely day of mist, cloud and now sun.  We are spending the night in a small casa  off the main route.  It is in a restored 17 century farmhouse, and is part of a working farm.  Nice gardens and views of the countryside.  The farm has a small private chapel.  We will have an early night tonight as we have a long day tomorrow, and since Richard´s toe woes continue, we are taking it slowly.  I am having difficulty with this posting, and can only see the immediate line that I am typing....oh well. Adios for now

The next Two Days - Samos and rest

We departed from Bilorado yesterday morning in a howling wind and rain.  It was an interesting walk down the mountain, but I really liked it, and the wind was not too bad once we got to the shelter of the forest.  People with ponchos were having a lot of trouble and I saw one sleeping bag that had blown off a pack.  There was a constant barrage of chesnuts and walnuts pelting down.  We are truly in Galicia, and I really like the greeness, the wildness and the very welcoming and generous people of Galicia. The constanst mists and slight fog mute the colours and provide a pervasive softness to the external world. Perhaps it is my own Celtic roots, but feel a much greater affinity with this part of Spain. We are staying at a very nice, but not fancy hotel on the outskirts of town.  Of course the town is dominated by the massive monastery, solid and grey and big.  This is truly a day of rest.  We even enjoyed the luxury of getting our clothes laundered at the hotel.  They look and smell clean and more importantly, are really dry.  We are eating a lot of leisurely meals, and as a bonus, the food at the hotel is very good.  We are both truly sick of pilgrims' meals - I cannot look at another fried potato. Last night we went to Vespers at the monstery, but it seemed like a full mass.  In this majestic setting, I do find the services extremely moving.  We lit candles for everyone back home, and a special one for Richard's toe, which has been giving him problems. A day of rest is helping too. 
135.8 km to go!!

Day 31 I think. Over O Cebreiro and down the other side - Biduedo

Day 30 yesterday .  We spent last night in Ruitelan, at the base of the "mountain", after a lovely day walking over large hills.  Most of the walkers opted for the route along the highway....go figure, so we were left in peace in the hills.  It was a beautiful sunny day, and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.  And we reunited with Robert from Australia, who crossed the pyrenees with us.  It was so nice to discuss the past month, and to  see that he is still soldiering on and enjoying himself.  Last night we stayed in a small hotel and were the only guests.  It seems that the number of pilgrims has drastically dropped off. So we fell asleep to the sound of cows mooing in the field outside.  And to the sound of rain.  We are now in Galicia, and as promised, it is wet.

Day 31.  Up early with breakfast on the way.  Then up and up to 1350 meters.  It was quite cool, and misty, but no rain.  Although the path up was steep at times, it did level out occasionally and it was a walk that I enjoyed.  Almost zero visibility.  The top was disappointingly touristy, but we kept moving.  We passed through several small villages, all very rural, with cows and chickens wandering around, and plenty of friendly dogs.  We walked 22 k, and with the climb at the start of the day, we were very tired when we fianlly arrived at our destination.  Dinner has been  consumed and we watched the cows being herded back to be milked.  I am sitting in the corner of the bar freezing.  It is pitch black out.  Richard is discussing affairs with a Norwegain pilgrim.  We are all off to bed very soon.  Tomorrow off to Samos and a day of rest. Yahoo!

Day 29 - Villefranca de Bierzo

We are moving on.  Here is a summary of the past 3 days.
Day 27 - Acebo. We left Rabanal aftter enjoying evening vespers and dinner withe the British hospetelier at the albergue Gaulcelmo.  It is all a bit of a blur now, but we arrived at Acebo, another picture-perfect tiny village witha very Swiss feel.  We stayed at a casa rural called La Trucha - the trout.  It nwas home to a very nice man and his three dogs, many cats and one goat.  It also seemed to be home to an old frail genteman who used to be a shepherd.
Day 28 - Ponferrada with its Templar castle.  It was Friday night before the big holiday on the 12th, and race cars departed from the town square at 9pm, just as we were wanting to sleep, but then the party started, so it was not a great night for sleeping.
Day 29 - Villefranca.  A lovely town, with mountains in the very near distance.  We have been climbing the past couple of days, and face very big climbs in the next couple of days.  We have really struggled the past week, with our lingering gastrointentinal virus.  Somehow we are here.  Off to sleep now.  We are fine.....less than 200 k to go.

The real day 25 and day 26

The last few days have really tested us.  Whatever bug I caught is vicious and has persisted.  Yesterday we walked to Astorga, slept for a while and then tried to see some of the sights...the Gaudi palace, chocolate musuem and the clock with a man and woman striking the hours.  But it was a struggle and I did not enoy it.  Also, the hustle and bustle of a city is unwelcome after spending most of the day in the countryside.  We debated what to do, considering leaving the Camino for a week or so to recover our health, to skipping a couple of stages altogether.  Why are we doing this????  But in the end we decided to walk shortish days,  rest all afternoon and see how it goes.  And here we are in Rabanal, up high (1155meters).  We were going to stay at "Darlene´s" albergue, but opted for a private one with more exclusive access to a bathroom.  When we arrived here the sky was leaden and we expected rain, but suddenly the sky was clear blue----our first piece of good luck in a while.  It is very peaceful here, good for the soul. The chores (laundry) are done, and we have had a nap, so now we will go in search of crackers and gingerale.  My camera is working, turns out it was user error.

Day 25 Astorga and Day 26 Rabanal

Day 24 - Villar de Mazarife

Day 23 was spent in Leon, enjoying the glorious sun.  We wandered around the city, and toured the cathedral with its fantastic stained glass.  It was a wonderful day, and I was feeling very relaxed...until....I realized that my credit card and cash had be stolen, most likely in the medieval market! It was easy enough to cancel the card. The rest of the afternoon was spent at the police station filing a report.  I was impressed with how pleasant and helpful they were.  I thought I was being vigilent, but will obviously have to be more careful.  Not a good way to end the day.

Day 24 did not start any better.  I did not sleep well and woke up with a rather nast gastointestal bug. Of course, being stubborn, I decided to carry on with the plans for the day.  We walked 20k, or rather, I dragged myself 20k.  Fortunately the path was fairly level, but it was really a struggle, stopping every half hour or so.  We got to Mazarife, and were lucky to get a room with a bathroom above a bar.  I collapsed on the bed and slept the rest of the day.  Things did not improve overnight, but now it is morning and I feel much better.  We are going to take it slowly today and only go 15k. Oh yes, my new camera ceased functioning yesterday. 

Day 21 - Leon

Despite being told that the walk into Leon was horrible, we decided to go ahead and walk anyway.  Leaving Villarente around7:45 in the semi dark, we made our way westward, and actually found it a pleasant walk, past cows, chickens and crowing roosters.  The hum of the highway was there of course, but the way was well marked and safe. As it turns out there is a medieval street fair going on, so things should get pretty lively tonight.  We are resting our weary feet and looking forward to not having to pack up our belongings tomorrow morning.  Over dinner last night we were talking with the other pilgrims about how lucky we all were to still be walking and to be in good health.  Everyone had stories of people who have had to eliminate sections of the walk or abandon it for this year because of injury.  I guess all of our training is paying off.  We do know that there are big hills in our future - we can now see them in the distance, so we do have many more steps to take.  We saw our friend Amigo (the dog) again today as well as a number of human peregrinos from days past.  Just as we arrived at Santa Maria del Camino on the way into Leon the priest arrived and opened the church, so we went in and spent a few minutes contemplating the journey.
Now I must go and contemplate my dirty laundry.  No need to spend time thinking about what to wear for dinner----that would be the "outfit" that is not hanging up drying.

Day 20 Villarente just before Leon

We are in a very nice Albergue San Pelayo, and the sun is shining!!!  We had another long day along flat paths, part of which were the old Roman Road.  The  scenery may have been quite constant but the sky was constantly changing as was the weather, from cloudy to rainy to sunnny and back again.  And the wind (the resident siamese cat has just walked across the keyboard and done strange things to this post) Now   he is just staring at me....???not sure what that means in Cat.  Anyway, it was a long day and we are quite  tired, but the sun is shining and we have a short day tomorrow and then a day off in Leon.  And the atmosphere in the albergue is very relaxing, with a garden and a sitting room.  ´The cold and cough Richard has been fighting has abated as have the shin splints.  Think I will go and warm my weary bones in the sun.

Day 19 - Calzadilla de los Hermanillos

One day to catch up on.  Day 18 - Caldadilla de la Cueza - This was the day from hell.  We awoke to heavy rain and wind, so after breakfast we suited up for the conditions, and headed out.  It was not too bad for the first half hour or so, but then the wind picked up and the rain started coming sideways.  It was 17 km of unrelenting slog, with absolutely no shelter.  No point in stopping, because you just got colder.  So on it was. The Gardia Civil and an Ambulance appeared at one point, as someone had called 112.  We had planned on a short easy day, but instead had a short difficult day.  Arriving at the hostal we warmed up with coffee, wine and lunch and tried to dry out our gear, which was sopping.  Somehow the afternoon disappeared, and we enjoyed dinner with our Irish friends who are heading home tomorrow.  Then to bed to the sound of dripping water.

Day 19 . A long day, and fortuntely the rain was only intermittent and light.  The counryside was rather boring, with some stretches along beside the highway.  Then through Sahagun, where Richard and I became separated in the twisty streets, with yellow arrows pointing all directions.  We have been following a permanent pilgrim and his very cute dog, Amigo, and they again appeared and helped us reconnect...like magic.  Then on and on, approx. 37 k....but horrors, we took a wrong alternate route and would have had to walk another 15k to the casa rural where we had a reservation.  We were saved by a man in a bar who called a taxi for us, which we ended up sharing with 2 other ladies.  And here we are, very tired, but now clean, and with our clothes washed.  Another  30 k day tomorrow, but still flat terrain, then some easy days and a rest in Leon.  The Camino is now seeming very long............