October 16, Crans, just outside Geneva

On to the next step of our journey.  It is mild and cloudy here so the mountains are hidden for the moment, but we did have a good view of them flying in a couple of days ago.
This is a quiet interlude with a chance to rest and plan how to best use our 2.5 days in Paris.
Meanwhile we visit and catch up on life in the Hunziker household...and walk their dog. 

Today we have two important items on the calendar....visiting Tristans, the chocolate make several towns away and having filets de perche at the local restaurant.  Many who have travelled the world say that the filets de perche served there are the best in the world.

And we are hoping that the weather clears as promised, as we will journey into the mountains tomorrow.  Fingers crossed.

Then to Paris by train on Saturday.

We are hearing more and more news of the outside world, most of it not good.  We have been pleasantly isolated from much of that, but not for much longer.

More from Paris

October 14 Relaxing in Nice

Well  here we are on our last day in Nice.  It took us one entire day to travel here by train from Cahors.  And what a different world!  Thousands of red roofs, mountains behind and the turquoise Mediterranean.
I was expecting to feel outclassed in this trendy city of the rich and famous, walking around in my hiking clothes, but Nice is a wonderful melange of all sorts of people, multiple accents on the street and a vast spectrum of attire.  We have seen many of the sights here, the old town, the Promenade Anglais, the buildings of the Belle Epoque, and we walked all around the coast from Cqp Ferrat back to the middle of Nice.  And yesterday we took the bus to St Paul de Vence, in the rain, and walked around this artsy town perched on a mountain.
And all of this with the wonderful hospitality of Roland and Annette.  We have a view of the sea and sky from our flat, all kinds of tourist advice and suggestions and a trip to Italy for lunch.  We are so lucky!

Now by plane to Geneva.....a mupti-part trip.

Au revoir for now.

Cahors, October 8, I think

Two days ago we arrived in Vers, after a fairly long but not too difficult walk.  Unfortunately, even though there was a computer, internet and telephone were down throughout the entire town.....someone had cut a cable.  But dinner was very good, yet another cassoulet with duck.....a very good one!  No rain, but it was very damp, and nothing dried, so socks pinned to packs again.  And our socks which were brand new at the start now have holes...an indicater of the hard walking to which they have been subjected.

Last night we arrived in Cahors.  We had anticipated a walk of 11 km, but it turned out to be closer to 20.  After a couple of descents on loose rock, it was easy, along the river Lot, and very scenic, passing many vegetable gardens (commercial).  One fellow was harvesting radishes, and gave us a couple to taste, both large and different, Asian I think, and a nice addition to lunch, eaten beside a lock.  Cahors is large and noise after the peace of the countryside.  Our camino cpmpanion, Hubert, whom we have seen multiple times, is of course staying in our hotel, across from the Halles.  And today is a huge market day, so we have spent the morning  cruising the produce and flea markets.

Tomorrow we will take a train to Nice, having walked about 400 km.  It would be nice to continue, but maybe next year.  We waved goodbye to Hubert on the old fortified bridge as he continued on to St Jean.  We will spend another night above the bar and contemplate our journey.  At the moment Richard is investigating the wines of Cahors......an endless task it seems.

Au Revoir for now, my 15 minutes are up here in the tourist bureau.  Will update the blog from Nice and Paris.  For noz w all is well.

Sunday October 5 - La Bastide Murat and a computer at last!!!

Now I can catch up on the past couple of days.  Public computers are difficult to find here.

Wednesday October 1 - Since we arrived late in Figeqc last night we took a couple of hours to walk the old town, and actually wished we had  more time.  I really liked this city, nicely restored and with multiple littel squares with shops and cafes.  But since we had 21 km to walk , off we went, as the weather cleared.  There was a fair amount of uphill, and a few day hikers, but we saw no long distance pilgrims like us.  The day seemed endless as we trudged on and on, but finally La Chapelle Marival came into sight where we quickly got rid of our boots and found the town bar to restore ourselves with our newest addiction - Monacos ?sp.  The locals were out there in force, and it was fun to sit there in the sun.  We are finding this "camino" bereft of companionship as there is nobody else doing the same thing, especially since we have  passed Conques, where many walkers were stopping.

Thursday October 2 - Gramat  Another 22 km day that got off to a bad start because we missed a turn leaving town.  An old lady out walking in her slippers waved to us and told us to turn around, of it would have been worse.  All I can remember of this day are an enormous fortified Church in Rudelle and meeting a girl walking with a donkey, who looked better fed than she did.  Gramat was an unattractive town for me.  and I was happy to leave.

Friday October 3 - Rocamadour.  This was a great day.  Only a short walk of 12 km starting off with the purchase of excellent local goat cheese at the market.  We had no pavement to walk on and quickly descended into the gorge leading up to Rocamadour.  On the way we passed one enormous and several smaller ruins of mills (for flour and walnuts).  We had our usual picnic lunch in a parking lot, not realizing that jsut around the corner was Rocamadour.  And what a spectacle, with all those chapels, churches and the château built into massive cliffs.  Being the second most visited site in France, there were of course, quite a few tourists.  And there was absolutely no emphasis on the Chemin de Saint Jacques, which I find odd.  We did enjoy our day of rest, with 2 nights here, taking in all the sights.  The weather was clear and warm and during breakfast, two hot air balloons  went up right over the terrace of the hotel where we were staying. We could hear and see the flames and very clearly see the people in the baskets.

Sunday October 5 - La Bastide Murat.  We were worried about today on two counts, that the weather would be wet and that the path would not be well marked.  But neither happened.  We arrived here after walking 28 km and there were actually some flat sections!  A miracle!  But no people and no cafes and no where to sit down out of the damp.  Now here we are with hot coffee and a hot shower and a nice cozy room.  We have only two more days of walking, and it does feel like this area at least is nearing the end of its season (our hotel closes in 5 days).

Laundry to be done before dinner and we are starved.  Cassoulet perhaps?

Tuesday September 30 arrived in Figeac

Yesterday we left the beautiful city of Conques (without our breakfast croissants, which never arrived) and climbed and climbed and walked and walked until we arived in Decazeville, not a particularly attractive city with remnants of old open pit coalmines.

And today was very difficult - 29 km, with a fair amount of ascent and descent.  But worst of all was the rain, torrential at times.  There was one town only 4 mm from our starting point that had some services, but after that........rien.  Fortunately there was a shelter where we could get out of the rain and eat lunch of peanuts and cheese.  Finally we arrived in Figeac at 5:30 completely exhausted and with very sore feet.
However, after a warm shower and some food our spirits have revived.  The forecast is better for tomorrow, so we hope to explore Figeac before heading off to Rocamadour. Our hotel is by the river and the ducks have just quieted down.

Off to rearrange the laundry and other assorted damp things.

Bonsoir

Sunday in Conques

We spent last night in the very small and quiet village of Espeyrac above a bar.  And I am now in the tourist office in the beautiful town of Conques.  Our walking days have been long....my feet and socks are both feeling the strain, and I am hoping that Compeed will work its magic on the blister on the sole of my foot.  Taking no chances I am also lighting a number of candles. The Chemin du Puy is much more demanding physically than the Camino Frances.

We have just said farewell to three folks that we have crossed paths with over the post 10 days;  They return home to Paris tomorrow.  And yesterday we walked for quite a distance with a young women from Uppsala.

I wish that we had scheduled an extra day here in Conques.  There is so much to see, but also a lot of tourists.  We wll attend mass at 1700 hours then rest in our small room opposite the church.

Bon Chemin and off to Decazeville tomorrow.

Friday September 26 Estaing

It is 5 oclock and we just arrived here.  This was supposed to be an easy day.....4 hours.  We left at 8 ????
Fortunately the tourist bureau is just across from where we are staying, and they have internet.
We spent quite a bit of time in Espalion, where it was market day.  In particular we were searching for alizou cheese, which we finally found.  Along the way it was a four church day, and one of them was particularly interesting with an upstairs chapel.  We had a long lunch break with wine, and that undoubtedly made the afternoon's climb feel more arduous.

Now it is off to wash, both us and clothes.  We have been walking for 9 days and it is seeming long.
Every day has been very different, with a huge variety of accommodations.  It really is a fantastic journey through France------but not easy.  I think many walkers take easier variants of the GR 65, and we are purists (so far).

Bon Chemin

Thursday September 25 .....really....Saint Chely d'Olt

Here we are in the Convent de Malet, an immense building that has been partially converted into accommodation for pilgrims and others.  The rooms are spare, but very comfortable with lots of light.
And no rain today for our 18km walk. That doesn't sound like much, but there is a lot of up and down, and now we are down at only 360 meters or so.  The highlight of the day for me was Roger at Estrade, with his petit coffee stand, perfect for a mid morning break, with a lot of laughter.  I began the day with 3 layers of clothes plus gloves and earmuffs, as it was 3 degrees C at breakfast time, and now I am in a tshirt.

We will attend vespers then have dinner then collapse.  Tomorrow is an easy day, the only pressing thing is to find the proper cheese vendor along the way who sells alizou cheese made from winter milk.

Bon Chemin...I will sit somewhere in the silence here, perhaps in the gardens

Wednesday September 23 Lepadou Bas

We have had an interesting day, starting off in Nasbinals in the Aubrac.  We had a long day of walking to get there, 27 km with some hills, but mainly long.  And then our hotel was a further 400 meters out of town, which seemed like a cruel punishment.  It then turned out that all the hotels in the village were controlled centrally, so we had to return to town to eat dinner.  In the end it was an enjoyable experience, noisy, but we carried on a conversation with a local couple sitting next to us, with the topics centering on food and the weather.

This morning we awoke to the sound of rain.  So, we got suited up for bad weather.  We walked through pastureland up to 1300 meters.  And was it cold!! Misty......very mountainlike.  We stopped at a gite that was closed for the season, but at least it was shelter.  And then a miracle.  In Aubrac we found a fantastic restaurant that was warm and even had boot warmers!  After an omelette aux cepes, coffee and an enormous slice of tarte aux fruits rouges we were able to face the elements.  And we got a stamp in our passports that was an actual impression, not just ink.

And the rain let up as we made our descent towards St Chely.  We are staying at a small chambre d`hotes, only 4 rooms and we are the only guests tonight.  It is an old stone cowbarn restored and converted by the couple that operate the establishment.

We are encountering occasional walkers, but only some of them are following the same route as us.
But there is a group of three that we keep bumping into, and that is very comforting.  The walking is becoming routine, even on the more demanding days.  Still far more cows than people.

A delicious dinner is being prepared in the kitchen next to me, and I am starving.

Bon Chemin

Saugues

Bon Matin!

We have just spent a quiet night in Saugues after our second day of walking.
I had such trouble with the computer in Le Puy that not much got posted there but our day was lovely with many of the local people in costume for the Fete du Roi des Oiseaux.  A festive atmosphere prevailed and this buoyed our spirits as we prepared to depart.
The first day we saw not a single pilgrim.......tres bizarre!  We did see many cows some sheep a couple of farm dogs, one very startled hare and an enormous hawk feasting on his dinner.  Halfway along we came across a gentleman, un ange gardien he called himself, who convinced us to take the old Camino route marked with real shells nailed to trees, which was shorter and more remote and passed no bistros.  It was beautiful and fortunately we had some nuts and chocolate to keep up our strength.  Our destination of Rougeac was off the beaten path as well, but we located it easily - a miracle.  I find the trail markings excellent.  I was quite tired ?jetlag.
The second day we walked to Saugues, a difficult stage with a steep long descent and a 3 km uphill.  Quite a few walkers, but a very pleasant atmosphere.  We hear mostly French being spoken and I am finding that I understand quite a bit.  The countryside is spectacular and the weather so far ideal for walking.  We are eating very well - many of the dishes are prepared from locally obtained ingredients- a delicious tarte de myrtilles/blueberries yesterday.  So all in all things are going well.  I even found my sunglasses which I was convinced had been lost in the Paris airport.

Today is a very short day only 10 km.  We will take it easy and have a long lunch.  Not difficult in France where food rules.

I am happy to be listening to only the sound of my footsteps, and the occasional church bell or cow chewing on grass.

Bon Chemin

LePuy

Here we are! Subway, bus, pĺane, traìn, small train añď bus. Aŕrìvèď veŕy tired. But ŕeviveď today. LePuy ìs bèaütìful. Wè aŕe èätìnģ laŕge mèaĺs iñ pŕepäŕätioñ for  tömöŕŕow? I am gettìnģ sìck of fiģhtìnģ wìth thìs ķeyböard ìn  the tourìst office.  Walkìng will be easier!!!

Bon Chemìn

Off on Camino lite

We depart in a couple of hours to catch the Rocket to the airport.  All the plants are watered, backpacks checked and rechecked -  Richard's will be carried on and mine, with poles and knife etc will go with checked luggage. Will it reappear on the carousel in Charles de Gaulle airport?

I have actually felt myself detaching from everyday life as our departure nears.  I am looking forward to the simplicity of walking every day.  Also a little sad that we are not walking all the way to St Jean.  Guilt at doing Camino lite?  I expect that feeling will disappear after climbing the first few steep hills near LePuy.

Bon Chemin!

MAP OF CHEMIN DU PUY (VIA PODIENSIS)

Here is where we will be walking, from Le Puy to Cahors via Rocamadour, 370 km.