The rains ended overnight, thankfully, and the final day of walking was done under mixed skies, with only the occasional shower. And it was a pleasant, mostly over the high moors of Galicia with only a couple of tiny hamlets, and very few pilgrims. At about 1pm I went over a slight hill and had my first glimpse of the Atlantic. It was a wonderful feeling to know that I had walked from the south of France, over the Pyrenees, across northern Spain, and finally was close the ocean - the end of land and the end of my journey. Down a steep incline and into the town of Cee (in the rain). I stopped at the first cafe/bar only to find most of the folks with whom I had walked the day before. Everyone was very happy to be nearing the end, and we lingered over several coffees, waiting in vain for the rain to cease. I finally headed out, and promptly got lost - it was hellishly difficult to find the way out of Cee. I was rescued by a fellow pilgrim who had lunch with me (she had spotted my bright yellow jacket) and showed me a waymarker she had just spotted. It seemed to take forever to get to Finisterre, up and down many times and back and forth across the highway. It was fun to walk along the shore of the ocean, but I was ready to be done, and it was another long day of 30+ km. At around 4:30 I found the Albergue do Mar, right on the Camino and at the edge of the beach, overlooking the ocean. Richard was waiting, and we watched the rain end and the most complete rainbow form over the ocean. At this point I felt finally finished with my journey of 900 km. We enjoyed a dinner of freshly caught fish and I heard about Richard's adventures going to Muxia on the other side of the peninsula.
The next morning we walked along the beach under sunny skies, I put one foot in the Atlantic and collected some shells. Then it was off to the bus station. There was time for a final cafe con leche and tarte Santiago. The bus trip back to Santiago took 3 hours, in comparison to the 3 days it had taken me to walk from the same city. We stayed near the bus station, had a farewell ensalada mixte with tuna and a racione of cheese, then took the bus to the airport and by 10 pm were in Geneva, our Camino over.
It will take several days and weeks of reflection to think about what this journey has meant to us.
We have hundreds of photos and hundreds of adventures and memories. It is still difficult to comprehend that we do not have to get up every day and walk, no matter the conditions.
It was an incredible journey. We were happy that we were both able to complete it in the way we wanted. Now we need to rest, and for me the fatigue is not really physical, but mental and emotional.
We are looking forward to getting home, collecting Mandy, cleaning up after the renovation of our home and seeing all our family on the other side of the ocean. We will have been gone for almost 2 months, and missed the entire fall season. Time to prepare to step back into the "real" world.
Sunday 27 October 2013
Thursday 24 October 2013
Day 41 - Oliveroa
I am not sure exactly how much rain is normal for Galicia, but today was certainly very wet, and I have heard that the rain we experienced in Santiago caused considerable flooding in parts of the city. Anyway, today was a 34 k slog that began in the semi dark of Negreira at 8:15 and ended at 3:30 in Oliveroa. The only people I saw outdoors were the 7 pilgrims who more or less walked within eyesight of each other for a large part of the day. And the animals were smart enough to stay under cover. We walked through rivers, along roads running with inches of water and at one point were about to wade through calf deep water that covered a 30 foot section of the road when a truck appeared, drove through the water then stopped, loaded us all into the back of the truck, backed up through the water, unloaded us, then drove off, to shouts of gratitude. There were 2 cafes open, and I stopped at both of them, ate a quick snack, had a hot drink, but did not linger long (cooled off too quickly, better to keep moving). Boots soaked, pack rain cover filled with several pounds of water. One of the reasons I wanted to walk this more remote section of the Camino was so that I would not have to deal with hoards of pilgrims, but in the end, it was very comforting today to have company. There was very little energy for talking, but the extra sets of eyes were useful in spotting route markers. I am now warm and dry, and trying to get my equipment in some sort of state of dryness for tomorrow. It is presently still dripping. 31 k tomorrow and then I will be truly DONE!
Wednesday 23 October 2013
Day 40 - Negreira on the way to Finisterre
Here I am in a small bar down the road from where I am staying. Richard is hopefully installed in a little hotel in Finisterre looking out at the ocean in the sun. In order to rest his toe which is healing very slowly, he opted to take the bus to Finisterre (2.5 hours) and wait until I arrive on Friday.
We spent two incredibly wet nights in Santiago. I have never seen rain so heavy and prolonged - soaked to the skin in 2 minutes, no matter how well you are protected. But fortunately yesterday we had mixed weather and were able to see the sights between showers. We collected our Compostelles at the Pilgrim´s office and were greeted there by a very pleasant woman who managed to make our welcome very warm and personal. We learned that over 200 pilgrims over 80 years of age have registered there this year and she personally greeted the 91 year-old who finished recently. We attended the pilgrims´ mass at noon and it was packed. For me it was quite moving--the sun came out and the light poured in towards the end of the service. The nun who did much of the singing had an amazingly pure voice. And then there was the botofumaria, the huge gold incense container attached to large ropes which is swung back and forth by two teams of monks. Most jaws, including mine, dropped.
Somehow, between lunch and writing postcards, the afternoon vanished. Then it was time to attend our second religious service of the day, this time in the church of the Benedictinas? - a small church behind the cathedral. Our friend Denis ( M Amigo) was at the service, as was Amigo his dog. He barked a couple of times! Maybe because he smelled Richard who had givien him a package of bones earlier in the afternoon.
We exited the church and were promptly drenched. The a late dinner and to bed to the sound of rain, rain, rain. My idea to walk to Finisterre seemed crazy, and in fact a number of people we talked to had opted out.
Th rain stopped arounc 6am and by 8:30 just as it was getting lignt, I was on my way. The weather was mixed, with some sun to dry out between showers. I encountered only 3 pilgrims and one heron today, as well as numberous cats and dogs. It was a short day, only 22 k but the next 2 days are long and difficult.
We spent two incredibly wet nights in Santiago. I have never seen rain so heavy and prolonged - soaked to the skin in 2 minutes, no matter how well you are protected. But fortunately yesterday we had mixed weather and were able to see the sights between showers. We collected our Compostelles at the Pilgrim´s office and were greeted there by a very pleasant woman who managed to make our welcome very warm and personal. We learned that over 200 pilgrims over 80 years of age have registered there this year and she personally greeted the 91 year-old who finished recently. We attended the pilgrims´ mass at noon and it was packed. For me it was quite moving--the sun came out and the light poured in towards the end of the service. The nun who did much of the singing had an amazingly pure voice. And then there was the botofumaria, the huge gold incense container attached to large ropes which is swung back and forth by two teams of monks. Most jaws, including mine, dropped.
Somehow, between lunch and writing postcards, the afternoon vanished. Then it was time to attend our second religious service of the day, this time in the church of the Benedictinas? - a small church behind the cathedral. Our friend Denis ( M Amigo) was at the service, as was Amigo his dog. He barked a couple of times! Maybe because he smelled Richard who had givien him a package of bones earlier in the afternoon.
We exited the church and were promptly drenched. The a late dinner and to bed to the sound of rain, rain, rain. My idea to walk to Finisterre seemed crazy, and in fact a number of people we talked to had opted out.
Th rain stopped arounc 6am and by 8:30 just as it was getting lignt, I was on my way. The weather was mixed, with some sun to dry out between showers. I encountered only 3 pilgrims and one heron today, as well as numberous cats and dogs. It was a short day, only 22 k but the next 2 days are long and difficult.
Monday 21 October 2013
Day 38 - Santiago !!! at last and on to Finisterre or Muxia
Here we are and it absolutely teeming down with rain. We are warm and dry and well fed, but have yet to venture out to get our Compostelle. That can wait until tomorrow. I have retrieved our package of clothes etc that we mailed here from Burgos. I don´t think it has really sunk in that our 800km pilgrimage is over. I am determined to walk on to either Finisterre (End of the World). Richard is less certain, because his toe is still giving him some trouble. We will sleep on it and decide tomorrow. There are a number of folks here that we have encountered along the way, and Richard´s own personal "Camino miracle" - we encountered Amigo and M Amigo, the permanent pilgrim and his dog, and more or less followed them into Santiago. We had not seen them since Sahagun. Here is what we have been up to for the past couple of days.
Day 35 Gonzar This was a very pleasant day´s walk through small hamlets. There was lots of sun and we stopped a couple of times to get fruit from little donativo (donation) stands. We had nice chats, one with a French gentelman who had bought a home to restore on the Camino "because he loved it" and another with a Spanish man who returned to the home in which he was born, on the Camino and rents out the odd room to pilgrims. We walked on through Portomarin where we picknicked and then on to Gonzar where we stayed in a private Alberge with wonderful fleece sheets and heat in the radiators. Dinner was in French at our table, because that was the most common language, and after a couple of bottles of wine, the conversation became very animated.
Day 36 Another 26k day to O Coto. We usually begin now around 8:15, because there is some daylight.
We began with no rain, but that didn´t last long. The rain was torrential for a while, and walking down the inclines was treacherous because of all the water. We and everyone else stopped at the first cafe, warmed up and headed out again. And the rain was never really a problem for the rest of the day. We are thinking that the Galicians must have 100 words for rain, just as the people in Canada´s north have 100 words for snow. There are just so many varieties. There was quite a bit of up and down today, so we were very happy to find our lodgings, a casa rural where we ate en famille. The food was excellent and folks around the table were excited to be nearing the end of their journeys. Richard and I are at this point tired of being on the move for almost 5 weeks. It is quite wearing, and then of course there is the walking. But after a while that becomes almost automatic. Still....two more days. And it is so damp. I swear the clothes we washed were wetter after hanging up to "dry" than they were the night before.
Day 37 Santa Irene This was a really long long day, 34k, maybe more, but the terrain was more difficult than it looked in the guidebook. Based on where we were after lunch in Arzua, and the time, and the state of Richard´s toe, we made the decision that he would take a taxi to our hotel and I would walk. I arrived at 7pm, just as it was getting a little too dark to be near the highway. I encountered a couple of hunters with rifles, and was a little unnerved...but no harm. During the day Richard encountered a retired priest/social worker from Cleveland! Very nice man was Patrick, and we lunched with him. Off to sleep for the last days´s walk.
Day 35 Gonzar This was a very pleasant day´s walk through small hamlets. There was lots of sun and we stopped a couple of times to get fruit from little donativo (donation) stands. We had nice chats, one with a French gentelman who had bought a home to restore on the Camino "because he loved it" and another with a Spanish man who returned to the home in which he was born, on the Camino and rents out the odd room to pilgrims. We walked on through Portomarin where we picknicked and then on to Gonzar where we stayed in a private Alberge with wonderful fleece sheets and heat in the radiators. Dinner was in French at our table, because that was the most common language, and after a couple of bottles of wine, the conversation became very animated.
Day 36 Another 26k day to O Coto. We usually begin now around 8:15, because there is some daylight.
We began with no rain, but that didn´t last long. The rain was torrential for a while, and walking down the inclines was treacherous because of all the water. We and everyone else stopped at the first cafe, warmed up and headed out again. And the rain was never really a problem for the rest of the day. We are thinking that the Galicians must have 100 words for rain, just as the people in Canada´s north have 100 words for snow. There are just so many varieties. There was quite a bit of up and down today, so we were very happy to find our lodgings, a casa rural where we ate en famille. The food was excellent and folks around the table were excited to be nearing the end of their journeys. Richard and I are at this point tired of being on the move for almost 5 weeks. It is quite wearing, and then of course there is the walking. But after a while that becomes almost automatic. Still....two more days. And it is so damp. I swear the clothes we washed were wetter after hanging up to "dry" than they were the night before.
Day 37 Santa Irene This was a really long long day, 34k, maybe more, but the terrain was more difficult than it looked in the guidebook. Based on where we were after lunch in Arzua, and the time, and the state of Richard´s toe, we made the decision that he would take a taxi to our hotel and I would walk. I arrived at 7pm, just as it was getting a little too dark to be near the highway. I encountered a couple of hunters with rifles, and was a little unnerved...but no harm. During the day Richard encountered a retired priest/social worker from Cleveland! Very nice man was Patrick, and we lunched with him. Off to sleep for the last days´s walk.
Thursday 17 October 2013
Day 34 - Beldorado, just past Sarria
We are in Beldorado a few kms past Sarria. After a nice quiet day off in Samos, where we rested, toured the monastery, and attended vespers twice, getting the pilgrim´s blessing the second time, we departed this morning for Sarria and points west. We did encounter quite a few pilgims in Sarria, but not as many as we had feared. After the peace and quiet of Samos, even a small town such as Sarria was hard to take, for me. But the walking was quite peaceful, mostly along lanes lined with trees. And, although we were all prepared for rain, we had a lovely day of mist, cloud and now sun. We are spending the night in a small casa off the main route. It is in a restored 17 century farmhouse, and is part of a working farm. Nice gardens and views of the countryside. The farm has a small private chapel. We will have an early night tonight as we have a long day tomorrow, and since Richard´s toe woes continue, we are taking it slowly. I am having difficulty with this posting, and can only see the immediate line that I am typing....oh well. Adios for now
Wednesday 16 October 2013
The next Two Days - Samos and rest
We departed from Bilorado yesterday morning in a howling wind and rain. It was an interesting walk down the mountain, but I really liked it, and the wind was not too bad once we got to the shelter of the forest. People with ponchos were having a lot of trouble and I saw one sleeping bag that had blown off a pack. There was a constant barrage of chesnuts and walnuts pelting down. We are truly in Galicia, and I really like the greeness, the wildness and the very welcoming and generous people of Galicia. The constanst mists and slight fog mute the colours and provide a pervasive softness to the external world. Perhaps it is my own Celtic roots, but feel a much greater affinity with this part of Spain. We are staying at a very nice, but not fancy hotel on the outskirts of town. Of course the town is dominated by the massive monastery, solid and grey and big. This is truly a day of rest. We even enjoyed the luxury of getting our clothes laundered at the hotel. They look and smell clean and more importantly, are really dry. We are eating a lot of leisurely meals, and as a bonus, the food at the hotel is very good. We are both truly sick of pilgrims' meals - I cannot look at another fried potato. Last night we went to Vespers at the monstery, but it seemed like a full mass. In this majestic setting, I do find the services extremely moving. We lit candles for everyone back home, and a special one for Richard's toe, which has been giving him problems. A day of rest is helping too.
135.8 km to go!!
135.8 km to go!!
Monday 14 October 2013
Day 31 I think. Over O Cebreiro and down the other side - Biduedo
Day 30 yesterday . We spent last night in Ruitelan, at the base of the "mountain", after a lovely day walking over large hills. Most of the walkers opted for the route along the highway....go figure, so we were left in peace in the hills. It was a beautiful sunny day, and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. And we reunited with Robert from Australia, who crossed the pyrenees with us. It was so nice to discuss the past month, and to see that he is still soldiering on and enjoying himself. Last night we stayed in a small hotel and were the only guests. It seems that the number of pilgrims has drastically dropped off. So we fell asleep to the sound of cows mooing in the field outside. And to the sound of rain. We are now in Galicia, and as promised, it is wet.
Day 31. Up early with breakfast on the way. Then up and up to 1350 meters. It was quite cool, and misty, but no rain. Although the path up was steep at times, it did level out occasionally and it was a walk that I enjoyed. Almost zero visibility. The top was disappointingly touristy, but we kept moving. We passed through several small villages, all very rural, with cows and chickens wandering around, and plenty of friendly dogs. We walked 22 k, and with the climb at the start of the day, we were very tired when we fianlly arrived at our destination. Dinner has been consumed and we watched the cows being herded back to be milked. I am sitting in the corner of the bar freezing. It is pitch black out. Richard is discussing affairs with a Norwegain pilgrim. We are all off to bed very soon. Tomorrow off to Samos and a day of rest. Yahoo!
Day 31. Up early with breakfast on the way. Then up and up to 1350 meters. It was quite cool, and misty, but no rain. Although the path up was steep at times, it did level out occasionally and it was a walk that I enjoyed. Almost zero visibility. The top was disappointingly touristy, but we kept moving. We passed through several small villages, all very rural, with cows and chickens wandering around, and plenty of friendly dogs. We walked 22 k, and with the climb at the start of the day, we were very tired when we fianlly arrived at our destination. Dinner has been consumed and we watched the cows being herded back to be milked. I am sitting in the corner of the bar freezing. It is pitch black out. Richard is discussing affairs with a Norwegain pilgrim. We are all off to bed very soon. Tomorrow off to Samos and a day of rest. Yahoo!
Saturday 12 October 2013
Day 29 - Villefranca de Bierzo
We are moving on. Here is a summary of the past 3 days.
Day 27 - Acebo. We left Rabanal aftter enjoying evening vespers and dinner withe the British hospetelier at the albergue Gaulcelmo. It is all a bit of a blur now, but we arrived at Acebo, another picture-perfect tiny village witha very Swiss feel. We stayed at a casa rural called La Trucha - the trout. It nwas home to a very nice man and his three dogs, many cats and one goat. It also seemed to be home to an old frail genteman who used to be a shepherd.
Day 28 - Ponferrada with its Templar castle. It was Friday night before the big holiday on the 12th, and race cars departed from the town square at 9pm, just as we were wanting to sleep, but then the party started, so it was not a great night for sleeping.
Day 29 - Villefranca. A lovely town, with mountains in the very near distance. We have been climbing the past couple of days, and face very big climbs in the next couple of days. We have really struggled the past week, with our lingering gastrointentinal virus. Somehow we are here. Off to sleep now. We are fine.....less than 200 k to go.
Day 27 - Acebo. We left Rabanal aftter enjoying evening vespers and dinner withe the British hospetelier at the albergue Gaulcelmo. It is all a bit of a blur now, but we arrived at Acebo, another picture-perfect tiny village witha very Swiss feel. We stayed at a casa rural called La Trucha - the trout. It nwas home to a very nice man and his three dogs, many cats and one goat. It also seemed to be home to an old frail genteman who used to be a shepherd.
Day 28 - Ponferrada with its Templar castle. It was Friday night before the big holiday on the 12th, and race cars departed from the town square at 9pm, just as we were wanting to sleep, but then the party started, so it was not a great night for sleeping.
Day 29 - Villefranca. A lovely town, with mountains in the very near distance. We have been climbing the past couple of days, and face very big climbs in the next couple of days. We have really struggled the past week, with our lingering gastrointentinal virus. Somehow we are here. Off to sleep now. We are fine.....less than 200 k to go.
Wednesday 9 October 2013
The real day 25 and day 26
The last few days have really tested us. Whatever bug I caught is vicious and has persisted. Yesterday we walked to Astorga, slept for a while and then tried to see some of the sights...the Gaudi palace, chocolate musuem and the clock with a man and woman striking the hours. But it was a struggle and I did not enoy it. Also, the hustle and bustle of a city is unwelcome after spending most of the day in the countryside. We debated what to do, considering leaving the Camino for a week or so to recover our health, to skipping a couple of stages altogether. Why are we doing this???? But in the end we decided to walk shortish days, rest all afternoon and see how it goes. And here we are in Rabanal, up high (1155meters). We were going to stay at "Darlene´s" albergue, but opted for a private one with more exclusive access to a bathroom. When we arrived here the sky was leaden and we expected rain, but suddenly the sky was clear blue----our first piece of good luck in a while. It is very peaceful here, good for the soul. The chores (laundry) are done, and we have had a nap, so now we will go in search of crackers and gingerale. My camera is working, turns out it was user error.
Sunday 6 October 2013
Day 24 - Villar de Mazarife
Day 23 was spent in Leon, enjoying the glorious sun. We wandered around the city, and toured the cathedral with its fantastic stained glass. It was a wonderful day, and I was feeling very relaxed...until....I realized that my credit card and cash had be stolen, most likely in the medieval market! It was easy enough to cancel the card. The rest of the afternoon was spent at the police station filing a report. I was impressed with how pleasant and helpful they were. I thought I was being vigilent, but will obviously have to be more careful. Not a good way to end the day.
Day 24 did not start any better. I did not sleep well and woke up with a rather nast gastointestal bug. Of course, being stubborn, I decided to carry on with the plans for the day. We walked 20k, or rather, I dragged myself 20k. Fortunately the path was fairly level, but it was really a struggle, stopping every half hour or so. We got to Mazarife, and were lucky to get a room with a bathroom above a bar. I collapsed on the bed and slept the rest of the day. Things did not improve overnight, but now it is morning and I feel much better. We are going to take it slowly today and only go 15k. Oh yes, my new camera ceased functioning yesterday.
Day 24 did not start any better. I did not sleep well and woke up with a rather nast gastointestal bug. Of course, being stubborn, I decided to carry on with the plans for the day. We walked 20k, or rather, I dragged myself 20k. Fortunately the path was fairly level, but it was really a struggle, stopping every half hour or so. We got to Mazarife, and were lucky to get a room with a bathroom above a bar. I collapsed on the bed and slept the rest of the day. Things did not improve overnight, but now it is morning and I feel much better. We are going to take it slowly today and only go 15k. Oh yes, my new camera ceased functioning yesterday.
Friday 4 October 2013
Day 21 - Leon
Despite being told that the walk into Leon was horrible, we decided to go ahead and walk anyway. Leaving Villarente around7:45 in the semi dark, we made our way westward, and actually found it a pleasant walk, past cows, chickens and crowing roosters. The hum of the highway was there of course, but the way was well marked and safe. As it turns out there is a medieval street fair going on, so things should get pretty lively tonight. We are resting our weary feet and looking forward to not having to pack up our belongings tomorrow morning. Over dinner last night we were talking with the other pilgrims about how lucky we all were to still be walking and to be in good health. Everyone had stories of people who have had to eliminate sections of the walk or abandon it for this year because of injury. I guess all of our training is paying off. We do know that there are big hills in our future - we can now see them in the distance, so we do have many more steps to take. We saw our friend Amigo (the dog) again today as well as a number of human peregrinos from days past. Just as we arrived at Santa Maria del Camino on the way into Leon the priest arrived and opened the church, so we went in and spent a few minutes contemplating the journey.
Now I must go and contemplate my dirty laundry. No need to spend time thinking about what to wear for dinner----that would be the "outfit" that is not hanging up drying.
Now I must go and contemplate my dirty laundry. No need to spend time thinking about what to wear for dinner----that would be the "outfit" that is not hanging up drying.
Thursday 3 October 2013
Day 20 Villarente just before Leon
We are in a very nice Albergue San Pelayo, and the sun is shining!!! We had another long day along flat paths, part of which were the old Roman Road. The scenery may have been quite constant but the sky was constantly changing as was the weather, from cloudy to rainy to sunnny and back again. And the wind (the resident siamese cat has just walked across the keyboard and done strange things to this post) Now he is just staring at me....???not sure what that means in Cat. Anyway, it was a long day and we are quite tired, but the sun is shining and we have a short day tomorrow and then a day off in Leon. And the atmosphere in the albergue is very relaxing, with a garden and a sitting room. ´The cold and cough Richard has been fighting has abated as have the shin splints. Think I will go and warm my weary bones in the sun.
Wednesday 2 October 2013
Day 19 - Calzadilla de los Hermanillos
One day to catch up on. Day 18 - Caldadilla de la Cueza - This was the day from hell. We awoke to heavy rain and wind, so after breakfast we suited up for the conditions, and headed out. It was not too bad for the first half hour or so, but then the wind picked up and the rain started coming sideways. It was 17 km of unrelenting slog, with absolutely no shelter. No point in stopping, because you just got colder. So on it was. The Gardia Civil and an Ambulance appeared at one point, as someone had called 112. We had planned on a short easy day, but instead had a short difficult day. Arriving at the hostal we warmed up with coffee, wine and lunch and tried to dry out our gear, which was sopping. Somehow the afternoon disappeared, and we enjoyed dinner with our Irish friends who are heading home tomorrow. Then to bed to the sound of dripping water.
Day 19 . A long day, and fortuntely the rain was only intermittent and light. The counryside was rather boring, with some stretches along beside the highway. Then through Sahagun, where Richard and I became separated in the twisty streets, with yellow arrows pointing all directions. We have been following a permanent pilgrim and his very cute dog, Amigo, and they again appeared and helped us reconnect...like magic. Then on and on, approx. 37 k....but horrors, we took a wrong alternate route and would have had to walk another 15k to the casa rural where we had a reservation. We were saved by a man in a bar who called a taxi for us, which we ended up sharing with 2 other ladies. And here we are, very tired, but now clean, and with our clothes washed. Another 30 k day tomorrow, but still flat terrain, then some easy days and a rest in Leon. The Camino is now seeming very long............
Day 19 . A long day, and fortuntely the rain was only intermittent and light. The counryside was rather boring, with some stretches along beside the highway. Then through Sahagun, where Richard and I became separated in the twisty streets, with yellow arrows pointing all directions. We have been following a permanent pilgrim and his very cute dog, Amigo, and they again appeared and helped us reconnect...like magic. Then on and on, approx. 37 k....but horrors, we took a wrong alternate route and would have had to walk another 15k to the casa rural where we had a reservation. We were saved by a man in a bar who called a taxi for us, which we ended up sharing with 2 other ladies. And here we are, very tired, but now clean, and with our clothes washed. Another 30 k day tomorrow, but still flat terrain, then some easy days and a rest in Leon. The Camino is now seeming very long............
Monday 30 September 2013
Day 17 Carrion de los Condes
Finally found a bar with internet access and a computer, and of course cervesza limon. We are about halfway!!! Difficult to believe. Here is a summary of the past couple of days:
Day 14 - Hornillos. We left Burgos in the dark, Richard still suffering from his cold. We are taking large doses of vitamin C now in the hopes that it will help both of us. We encountered a new wave of pilgrims with clean shoes and great energy, passing everyone. They will learn! Walked across the flat meseta with wonderful panoramas of sky. I have become a great watcher of the sky since starting the Camino. And I always know the phase of the moon. We had arranged to stay at a Casa Rural, which we were to phone upon reaching Hornillos. I sat down on a bench, up pulls a small car and a woman hops out asking El Molina? We got in and drove 8 km or so to a refurbished mill house with resident dogs, chickens and peacocks! I think some of the movie The Way was filmed on the grounds. There was a large poster signed by the cast and several photos. And later we (all 20 of us) were treated to a fantastic home cooked dinner eaten en famille. We finished with liqueurs and went to sleep immediately.
Day 15 - Castrojeriz . Awoke to rain, had breakfast and piled into van for the trip back to town. There were 12 of us plus packs in a van with 8 seats....cosy. More trekking across the meseta in the drizzle. We decided to stay in rooms above a small bar. After getting settled and having a long lunch of bean soup and eggs we felt much better. We also felt much better after finding a bank machine which spit out money. We are finding that we need more cash than we had planned on because many places accept only cash. Over lunch we learned that there had been theft in a nearby albergue the previous night, with about 1000 euros stolen from backpacks while people were asleep. We rested then had dinner at the bar below us, rediscovering our new Irish friend, to replace our old Irish friends who have returned home.
Day 16 - More drizzle. And relentless head winds. The meseta instead of being hot and dry is cold and wet. It was a tiring walk, fighting the wind all the way to Boadilla where we stayed in a really nice albergue En El Camino, run by a local family. Dinner was at long tables and very good with lentils, chick pea soup and chicken....lots of it. Food is definitely one of the high points of the day, and we are always hungry for dinner. We also spent spme time planning the next week or two, as we are booking ahead, so avoid the stress of finding no room at the inn. We have heard via the Camino grapevine that this September is particularly flooded with pilgrims because the spring was so very wet and many people postponed their trips.
Also learned that there is a 91 year old man walking the Camino solo....so the pressure if off Richard, whose cold is much better. The problem now is shin splints.
Day 17 - Carrion. Awoke to guess what, more drizzle and rain. But we are getting the drill down and just deal with it. Started again in the dark, walking along the canal system that irrigates this agricultural area. Needed the flashlight to avoid puddles. Lots of pictures of sky again. The wave of pilgrims is getting dissipated - a blessing! We have been very fortunate to this point. Our bodies are holding up pretty well and our spirits are good, for the most part. We have decided that you really have to be a little bit crazy to walk the Camino. And you also have to be quite driven.....even if you are walking in a relaxed manner. The days are long and we are asleep by 9:30 most nights. Actually the days are getting noticibly shorter. We are already looking forward to a second rest day in Leon.
Adios....Hasta pronto....and Buen Camino! and perhaps a second cervesza before dinner.
Day 14 - Hornillos. We left Burgos in the dark, Richard still suffering from his cold. We are taking large doses of vitamin C now in the hopes that it will help both of us. We encountered a new wave of pilgrims with clean shoes and great energy, passing everyone. They will learn! Walked across the flat meseta with wonderful panoramas of sky. I have become a great watcher of the sky since starting the Camino. And I always know the phase of the moon. We had arranged to stay at a Casa Rural, which we were to phone upon reaching Hornillos. I sat down on a bench, up pulls a small car and a woman hops out asking El Molina? We got in and drove 8 km or so to a refurbished mill house with resident dogs, chickens and peacocks! I think some of the movie The Way was filmed on the grounds. There was a large poster signed by the cast and several photos. And later we (all 20 of us) were treated to a fantastic home cooked dinner eaten en famille. We finished with liqueurs and went to sleep immediately.
Day 15 - Castrojeriz . Awoke to rain, had breakfast and piled into van for the trip back to town. There were 12 of us plus packs in a van with 8 seats....cosy. More trekking across the meseta in the drizzle. We decided to stay in rooms above a small bar. After getting settled and having a long lunch of bean soup and eggs we felt much better. We also felt much better after finding a bank machine which spit out money. We are finding that we need more cash than we had planned on because many places accept only cash. Over lunch we learned that there had been theft in a nearby albergue the previous night, with about 1000 euros stolen from backpacks while people were asleep. We rested then had dinner at the bar below us, rediscovering our new Irish friend, to replace our old Irish friends who have returned home.
Day 16 - More drizzle. And relentless head winds. The meseta instead of being hot and dry is cold and wet. It was a tiring walk, fighting the wind all the way to Boadilla where we stayed in a really nice albergue En El Camino, run by a local family. Dinner was at long tables and very good with lentils, chick pea soup and chicken....lots of it. Food is definitely one of the high points of the day, and we are always hungry for dinner. We also spent spme time planning the next week or two, as we are booking ahead, so avoid the stress of finding no room at the inn. We have heard via the Camino grapevine that this September is particularly flooded with pilgrims because the spring was so very wet and many people postponed their trips.
Also learned that there is a 91 year old man walking the Camino solo....so the pressure if off Richard, whose cold is much better. The problem now is shin splints.
Day 17 - Carrion. Awoke to guess what, more drizzle and rain. But we are getting the drill down and just deal with it. Started again in the dark, walking along the canal system that irrigates this agricultural area. Needed the flashlight to avoid puddles. Lots of pictures of sky again. The wave of pilgrims is getting dissipated - a blessing! We have been very fortunate to this point. Our bodies are holding up pretty well and our spirits are good, for the most part. We have decided that you really have to be a little bit crazy to walk the Camino. And you also have to be quite driven.....even if you are walking in a relaxed manner. The days are long and we are asleep by 9:30 most nights. Actually the days are getting noticibly shorter. We are already looking forward to a second rest day in Leon.
Adios....Hasta pronto....and Buen Camino! and perhaps a second cervesza before dinner.
Thursday 26 September 2013
The Next 2 Days / Burgos and a day of rest
Yesterday we had our packs transported and began the day with a quick bite in our room and then off in the dark uphill. Richard awoke with a very sore throat and cough, feeling awful, but wasdetermined to walk, even though it was a gruelling day. We took it slowly. After 12 km we were rewarded with coffee, one of the real high points of any day. On through the woods and hills with the company of lots of birds and butterflies including some beautiful small blue ones. And no pilgrims. by mistake we took one of the alternate routes / longer !/ . By 330 we were on the ugly outkirts of Burgos, and made the decision because Richard was struggling and the traffic was horrendous, to take a taxi to our hotel. We have stepped outside one pilgrim world and entered another....luxurious.....for a day. A welcome break and Richard can sleep.
Today I shipped 3 kilos of excess stuff to Santiago. We are very stripped down now in terms of what we will carry. A weight off our shoulders. Burgos is beautiful...fantastic!!!! Tour of the cathedral thei pm. Adios for now...out of minutes on the computer.
Today I shipped 3 kilos of excess stuff to Santiago. We are very stripped down now in terms of what we will carry. A weight off our shoulders. Burgos is beautiful...fantastic!!!! Tour of the cathedral thei pm. Adios for now...out of minutes on the computer.
Tuesday 24 September 2013
Day 11 - Villafranca
No dinner last night at the truck stop, but they did have great hot chocolate and we had a peaceful nightś sleep. Breakfast was coffee at the bar with the truck drivers. We started walking early to get a few kilometers in during the cooler temperatures. And love the walking as day is breaking - the light is fantastic, and there are very few pilgrims on the road.
We passed through a succession of small villages, stopped for morning coffee in one of them, then walked on through rolling hills of farming country. Much of the day was spent near the busy N120, so it was fitting that we began the day with truckdrivers! We are now in Villafranca and have decided to have our packs transported tomorrow as we are aiming to get to Burgos 36 km over some significant hills. We are really looking forward to a day of rest in Burgos.
What we have enjoyed recently is that the initial torrent of walkers has spread out and we have plenty of solitude. That having been said, it is really nice to reconnect from time to time with folks from earlier days.
Buen Camino!!
We passed through a succession of small villages, stopped for morning coffee in one of them, then walked on through rolling hills of farming country. Much of the day was spent near the busy N120, so it was fitting that we began the day with truckdrivers! We are now in Villafranca and have decided to have our packs transported tomorrow as we are aiming to get to Burgos 36 km over some significant hills. We are really looking forward to a day of rest in Burgos.
What we have enjoyed recently is that the initial torrent of walkers has spread out and we have plenty of solitude. That having been said, it is really nice to reconnect from time to time with folks from earlier days.
Buen Camino!!
Monday 23 September 2013
Day 10 - Castildelgado
I am sitting in the bar of a small hotel by the highway in this very small town, basically a truckstop, but this is where we are spending the night. We had another short day of only 18 km. But the day had a wonderful beginning with breakfast in the kitchen of the Casa Rural where we spent the night. It was such a nice way to start the day with some other pilgrims. However the days are getting quite warm (31) with limited shade, so tomorrow we will try and be on the road before 7 when the temperatures are very pleasant for walking.
When we get to Burgos on Wednesday we will be lightening our packs, sending the excess on to Santiago or Auberge Hunziker. One of the universal truths of the Camino seems to be that despite being told to pack very light, everyone brings too much stuff...us included. We have been travelling off and on with two sisters from the US and earlier ran into Irish Damien who had travelled by bus while his wife went on by foot.
Things are going well, but we are looking forward to having a day of rest in Burgos. We have walked 250 km. The dining room here has closed for the season, so it will be a sandwich for dinner - very good ham here.
When we get to Burgos on Wednesday we will be lightening our packs, sending the excess on to Santiago or Auberge Hunziker. One of the universal truths of the Camino seems to be that despite being told to pack very light, everyone brings too much stuff...us included. We have been travelling off and on with two sisters from the US and earlier ran into Irish Damien who had travelled by bus while his wife went on by foot.
Things are going well, but we are looking forward to having a day of rest in Burgos. We have walked 250 km. The dining room here has closed for the season, so it will be a sandwich for dinner - very good ham here.
Sunday 22 September 2013
Day 9 Ciruena
We are still alive and well. Yesterday we walked 40 km, again without packs, to Najera. It was a killer day, as we departed Viana at 6:45 in the dark, and did not arrive until 11 hours later. We had breakfast in Logrono which smelled like a giant pissoir after the revelries of the wine festival. We walked on and on through the Rioja - fantastically beautiful countryside - but towards the end it was just a matter of putting
one foot in front of the other. Richard developed shin splints during the afternoon. But our bags were in our room, and we were greeted with a bottle of vino tinto. Amazing what a glass of wine and a shower will do to improve your spirits!!! Dinner by the river on Saturday night with young punks throwing giant firecrackers out of cars, but the police put a stop to that. Back to the hotel in the backstreets where the ladies of the night were just beginning work.
Today a short day to Ciruena, carrying packs, and the bodies are not complaining. Wonderful weather, brilliant sunshine, and everyone seems to be settling into a rhythm, or maybe just getting tired. I am sitting in the bar near the casa rural, stuggling with the keyboard, and watching a car race in Singapore. I have several technical difficulties, including an almost broken bootlace, a problem with wear on one part of a boot and a camera which is not reliable. Now using my i phone and keeping a close watch on my boots.
Irritants - everything is Complet (Full) and the kleenexes on the Camino are the best route markers, sadly.
Joys - the warmth of the sun as it comes up each day and takes the iciness out of the air and my feet are in great shape after 230 km.
one foot in front of the other. Richard developed shin splints during the afternoon. But our bags were in our room, and we were greeted with a bottle of vino tinto. Amazing what a glass of wine and a shower will do to improve your spirits!!! Dinner by the river on Saturday night with young punks throwing giant firecrackers out of cars, but the police put a stop to that. Back to the hotel in the backstreets where the ladies of the night were just beginning work.
Today a short day to Ciruena, carrying packs, and the bodies are not complaining. Wonderful weather, brilliant sunshine, and everyone seems to be settling into a rhythm, or maybe just getting tired. I am sitting in the bar near the casa rural, stuggling with the keyboard, and watching a car race in Singapore. I have several technical difficulties, including an almost broken bootlace, a problem with wear on one part of a boot and a camera which is not reliable. Now using my i phone and keeping a close watch on my boots.
Irritants - everything is Complet (Full) and the kleenexes on the Camino are the best route markers, sadly.
Joys - the warmth of the sun as it comes up each day and takes the iciness out of the air and my feet are in great shape after 230 km.
Friday 20 September 2013
Day Seven - Viana
Here we are in Viana, after walking 30 k sans packs. We decided to treat ourselves to a hotel night, and the only hotel we could find with vacancies was here. So, we had our bags transported and we walked.
But it was still a long day. Fantastic scenery in the morning with rolling hills, small villages and ancient fortified towns. By late morning the wave of rapidly moving walkers passed us and we were walked most of the afternoon with nobody in sight, and that was a treat. It was also nice to know that we had a place to sleep, so no need to rush. Last night a dozen people were forced to sleep outside - no space in the albergues or anywhere else and they were too tired to go on. It was very cold. Our albergue was run by a Dutch reform church and the hospitaliers there were very kind and let these folks use the bathrooms and lent them sleeping bags and mats.
We are looking forward to a night with no snorers, but will be up early tomorrow as we have another long day, and will walk again without packs. My back and Richard´s legs will appreciate it. We walk through Logrono which is celebrating a wine festival. We are in wine and olive country now.
Off to eat and I am starving!
But it was still a long day. Fantastic scenery in the morning with rolling hills, small villages and ancient fortified towns. By late morning the wave of rapidly moving walkers passed us and we were walked most of the afternoon with nobody in sight, and that was a treat. It was also nice to know that we had a place to sleep, so no need to rush. Last night a dozen people were forced to sleep outside - no space in the albergues or anywhere else and they were too tired to go on. It was very cold. Our albergue was run by a Dutch reform church and the hospitaliers there were very kind and let these folks use the bathrooms and lent them sleeping bags and mats.
We are looking forward to a night with no snorers, but will be up early tomorrow as we have another long day, and will walk again without packs. My back and Richard´s legs will appreciate it. We walk through Logrono which is celebrating a wine festival. We are in wine and olive country now.
Off to eat and I am starving!
Thursday 19 September 2013
Monjardin - Day Six, I think
A short day of walking and here we are in Monjardin, near the top of a mountain, in a Dutch-run alberge.
We have a bed and will be registered at 4 pm. We are rejoined by our Irish friends with whom we crossed the Pyrenees, and Philip from California, with the blisters. Our plan to stay in smaller villages seems to be working better for us. Today it is a mix of sun and cloud, and lots of wind. Good walking temperatures.
And lots of beautiful views. I am in a small bar next to the alberge, uning one euro worth of public internet to stay connected with the world outside the Camino.
My wisdom for the day is to remember to look backwards - the views can be awesome and are not to be missed.
Tonight we will eat the pilgrim´s meal in our alberge and find out how many snorers there are in our room of six people. Tomorrow we plan to walk around 30 km (mostly flatish), but the reward is that we will be staying in a hotel and so we do not have to worry about finding a bed elsewhere. There are lots of people walking the Camino and we are told that last night here a number of folks slept outside the church, and it was really cold. The worry about finding accommodation does detract from the spiritual comtemplation the one would hope to experience. It is so windy that the tables, glasses and chairs outside just blew all over the square.
Adios for now
We have a bed and will be registered at 4 pm. We are rejoined by our Irish friends with whom we crossed the Pyrenees, and Philip from California, with the blisters. Our plan to stay in smaller villages seems to be working better for us. Today it is a mix of sun and cloud, and lots of wind. Good walking temperatures.
And lots of beautiful views. I am in a small bar next to the alberge, uning one euro worth of public internet to stay connected with the world outside the Camino.
My wisdom for the day is to remember to look backwards - the views can be awesome and are not to be missed.
Tonight we will eat the pilgrim´s meal in our alberge and find out how many snorers there are in our room of six people. Tomorrow we plan to walk around 30 km (mostly flatish), but the reward is that we will be staying in a hotel and so we do not have to worry about finding a bed elsewhere. There are lots of people walking the Camino and we are told that last night here a number of folks slept outside the church, and it was really cold. The worry about finding accommodation does detract from the spiritual comtemplation the one would hope to experience. It is so windy that the tables, glasses and chairs outside just blew all over the square.
Adios for now
Wednesday 18 September 2013
Day Five Villatuarte
We have revised our strategy, and will try and not spend the nights in places that are typically the endpoints of the stages published in all the books. So here we are in Villatuarte, just east of Estella. The Albergue is wonderful, very homelike with no bunks, all single beds, 5 to 6 per room. We arrived early after an easy walk of only 17 or so km. and not too much uphill. We are slowing down and I think getting into the spirit of the Camino. Folks who are rushing around really seen to irritate me. We have been fortunate with the weather, no rain, and rather cool, which has been great for walking. Our major tasks of the day, aside from walking, are getting the laundry done, and shopping for lunch, and of course looking for a computer to update the blog. There are two German girls walking the Camino with their three dogs and we saw them here passing through town, much cheerier than several days ago. And the dogs seemed very happy.
Life has become simple and quite pleasant and the days are falling into a rhythm. The woman running this Albergue says that we are starting the "child" stage of the Camino, just having left the "baby" stage. We are moving on.
Adios for now
Life has become simple and quite pleasant and the days are falling into a rhythm. The woman running this Albergue says that we are starting the "child" stage of the Camino, just having left the "baby" stage. We are moving on.
Adios for now
Tuesday 17 September 2013
DAY 4 September 17 Puenta la Reina
We are progressing along the Camino. We have been so busy and tired that there has been a gap in communication. Here is the summary of the past couple of days.
Day Two we arrived in Larrasona late, around 5 pm, only to find that the Albergue was complet (full), so we were directed to a Pension, where we had a small room to ourselves, but very cramped. However it ws antiseptically clean, and we were able to wash ourselves and our socks, before heading out to a pilgrim´s dinner. Here we met a very interesting Australian couple who may stay with us for a day or two when they visit Toronto in November. We were exhausted by the end of the day and my back was hurting....but not too badly.
Day Three: We were up at the crack of dawn to the smell of coffee, had a quick bite to eat then departed in the frosty cold to the crowing of roosters. At our stop for coffee along the way, we chatted with our Irish friend Matt. We decided to walk through Pamplona, but had a picnic complete with wine in the main park.
We rejoined Matt, by accident and walked with him to Cizur Manor, where we decided to stay the the first Albergue we found, a small one run by the Knights of Malta. We had hot chocolate in the bar in town and found our Australian friends, laid low by blisters. It is true that you do keep bumping into the same folks. Another pilgrim´s dinner with Matt and another Irishman who was feeling lonely because his daughter, who had been walking with him for the first three days, had returned home (work).
Day Four: Not the greatest night´s sleep, due to two ladies on the bunks above us, suffering from coughs and sniffles. Awakened to the sound of Gregorian chants, had a quick cupof coffee and a piece of bread, then off in the semi-light. It was a damp drizzly day and the first stop for a more complete breakfast, was very welcome. We mounted to Alto de Perdon, descended and wandered slowly onwards. Needing a bathroom we ended up in a small bar/restaurant and decided to have lunch. We were joined by a rather disgruntled gentleman, the only other patron in the place. After a beer his spirits improved and he also had lunch. He proved to be very interesting and he and Richard compared notes extensively on walking the Camino at ages 82 and 83. Then the footrace to find accommodation. That has been the only real downside to our travels. Anyway, we are in the large albergue on the way out of Puenta la Reina. It is huge and rather impersonal, but we do have our own cube, with a door, so it feels very luxurious.
Overall we are doing well. Our bodies are holding up remarkably well, despite our having set a fairly aggressive pace, because once you get in a rhythm, it is easier to keep going for a while. No blisters.
We have met some very interesting people, all with their own stories and reasons for walking.
Off now to shower and wash a few clothes. Buen Camino. I think we have walked about 100 km!
Day Two we arrived in Larrasona late, around 5 pm, only to find that the Albergue was complet (full), so we were directed to a Pension, where we had a small room to ourselves, but very cramped. However it ws antiseptically clean, and we were able to wash ourselves and our socks, before heading out to a pilgrim´s dinner. Here we met a very interesting Australian couple who may stay with us for a day or two when they visit Toronto in November. We were exhausted by the end of the day and my back was hurting....but not too badly.
Day Three: We were up at the crack of dawn to the smell of coffee, had a quick bite to eat then departed in the frosty cold to the crowing of roosters. At our stop for coffee along the way, we chatted with our Irish friend Matt. We decided to walk through Pamplona, but had a picnic complete with wine in the main park.
We rejoined Matt, by accident and walked with him to Cizur Manor, where we decided to stay the the first Albergue we found, a small one run by the Knights of Malta. We had hot chocolate in the bar in town and found our Australian friends, laid low by blisters. It is true that you do keep bumping into the same folks. Another pilgrim´s dinner with Matt and another Irishman who was feeling lonely because his daughter, who had been walking with him for the first three days, had returned home (work).
Day Four: Not the greatest night´s sleep, due to two ladies on the bunks above us, suffering from coughs and sniffles. Awakened to the sound of Gregorian chants, had a quick cupof coffee and a piece of bread, then off in the semi-light. It was a damp drizzly day and the first stop for a more complete breakfast, was very welcome. We mounted to Alto de Perdon, descended and wandered slowly onwards. Needing a bathroom we ended up in a small bar/restaurant and decided to have lunch. We were joined by a rather disgruntled gentleman, the only other patron in the place. After a beer his spirits improved and he also had lunch. He proved to be very interesting and he and Richard compared notes extensively on walking the Camino at ages 82 and 83. Then the footrace to find accommodation. That has been the only real downside to our travels. Anyway, we are in the large albergue on the way out of Puenta la Reina. It is huge and rather impersonal, but we do have our own cube, with a door, so it feels very luxurious.
Overall we are doing well. Our bodies are holding up remarkably well, despite our having set a fairly aggressive pace, because once you get in a rhythm, it is easier to keep going for a while. No blisters.
We have met some very interesting people, all with their own stories and reasons for walking.
Off now to shower and wash a few clothes. Buen Camino. I think we have walked about 100 km!
Saturday 14 September 2013
Roncesvalles
Hola, Greetings from Roncesvalles!!! We made it, and after una cervesza (sp?) we are feeling very good.
We started at 7am, bought a baguette on the way out of St Jean, then started to climb. After about one hour I thought I would throw up, but then things got easier. But it was a VERY long day; we arrived in Roncesvalles at 4pm. The weather was perfect....no fog, sunlight all day and we shared the path with sheep and cows and watched the birds ? eagles, hawks or vultures drift on the air currents. At our hotel in St Jean we met a lady from Nanaimo and we have already re-encountered her here in Roncesvalles. We also shared part of our travels today with a couple and their daughter from Australia and an Irish couple. It was a very upbeat day, and I think the fantastic weather had a lot to do with it.
Of course you could argue that we are not "real pilgrims" because once again we are staying in a hotel. However I have to tell you that the bathtub in our room looks very good. We will eat the pilgrim´s dinner, and plan tomorrow´s walk. Now, there are clothes to be washed.
We started at 7am, bought a baguette on the way out of St Jean, then started to climb. After about one hour I thought I would throw up, but then things got easier. But it was a VERY long day; we arrived in Roncesvalles at 4pm. The weather was perfect....no fog, sunlight all day and we shared the path with sheep and cows and watched the birds ? eagles, hawks or vultures drift on the air currents. At our hotel in St Jean we met a lady from Nanaimo and we have already re-encountered her here in Roncesvalles. We also shared part of our travels today with a couple and their daughter from Australia and an Irish couple. It was a very upbeat day, and I think the fantastic weather had a lot to do with it.
Of course you could argue that we are not "real pilgrims" because once again we are staying in a hotel. However I have to tell you that the bathtub in our room looks very good. We will eat the pilgrim´s dinner, and plan tomorrow´s walk. Now, there are clothes to be washed.
Friday 13 September 2013
St Jean Pied de Port
This is our day of rest prior to starting The Camino, otherwise known as Grandmas Walking Challenge. So far things have gone very well with air travel, connections, weather, helpful people.
We are excited and nervous, and hoping for good weather tomorrow, when we will start walking the first day of a journey that began almost a year ago with the purchase of airline tickets and continued with Darlene's pilgrim training throughout the year. Lots of pilgrims milling around, all contemplating their own journeys. OK....off to write postcards!
Buen Camino!!! Roncesvalles is next, over the Pyrenees!
We are excited and nervous, and hoping for good weather tomorrow, when we will start walking the first day of a journey that began almost a year ago with the purchase of airline tickets and continued with Darlene's pilgrim training throughout the year. Lots of pilgrims milling around, all contemplating their own journeys. OK....off to write postcards!
Buen Camino!!! Roncesvalles is next, over the Pyrenees!
Sunday 8 September 2013
Two more days
September 8, and the pack is ready, more or less - 15.5 pounds, with no food or water. Heavier than I wanted, but......we'll see. I have practiced with that weight, so hopefully it will not be too heavy. We take Mandy off to Campbellford today to stay with Mikey. She knows something big is up.
Thursday 5 September 2013
one more week
It is September 4th, six days before I depart for Spain, and ten days before I actually start the journey from St Jean pied de Port to Santiago de Compostella. It is long, 800 km. I am trying to get the blog set up at the moment and it is not going well.
Thursday 25 April 2013
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